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Routes in Old Folks' Wall

American Crawl T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bulgaria S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bunny, The T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gelding Years, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ish Kabibble T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Squeaky Clean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thriller S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Ben Boykin, 10/14/2010
Page Views: 68 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ben Boykin on Oct 19, 2010
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

A thin start (bolt) leads to the shelf. Climb the initial offwidth crack (crux), and continue upwards as the difficulty moderates. This may be harder for short people (like yours truly), 70 feet.

Although there is a bolt to protect the start, this is most definitely a trad route.

Location

This route is in the middle of the wall. Descend from bolted anchors on alternate routes at the top.

Protection

Hand-sized through #6 Camalots. Belay at the gap at the top with a long sling through the king-sized chockstone, and a few finger-sized stoppers.
Ben Boykin
Cheyenne, WY
 
Ben Boykin   Cheyenne, WY
 
I sure would like a consensus grading on this. I have discovered that I tend to rate things by standards I learned elsewhere. Jim Donini told me that grades are grades, defined by the local consensus. So I would appreciate your input. I'm not infallible, and I'm certainly not absolute. Besides, I have learned that I can certainly be incorrect. Thanks. Sep 21, 2012