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Routes in Mee Canyon

Arch Tower: Dry Heaves T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2- PG13
Cigar Tower: You're Gonna Go Far T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2-
Colossus: Male Vitality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Crisis Actors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Drinking with Gambino T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Friday Night Monster Truck Rally T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Garston Trout, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1+
Garston Trout: Crusher's Sloppy Seconds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1
Government Cheese T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C1
Middle Children of History Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Moai Tower: Vanished Civilization T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2+
Model Citizen T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Moon River T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2-
Nerve Endings T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Red Man Tower: America's Best Chew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shaking the Goat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tail Wagger T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Transcendent Function T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Unnamed V0 4
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Type: Trad, 260 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Andrew Gram and Josh Thompson, Oct. 2010
Page Views: 1,740 total · 18/month
Shared By: J. Thompson on Oct 6, 2010
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Pitch 1. Start up a thin hands crack. Climb through the OW bulge to a big ledge, then continue up the obvious hand/finger crack above to the belay directly below the double crack second pitch. Belay @ 2 good bolts with chains, 5.10, 100 feet.

Pitch 2. Climb the double cracks until they end. Do a couple of more moves up a hand crack, and belay below the right-leaning, varnished crack. The belay is 3 good bolts, 5.10, 75 feet.

Pitch 3. Climb out the varnished/ right-leaning fist crack until it gets wide and goes straight up. Continue up the OW to a huge ledge, which is more like a subsummit of the tower. The belay is 3 good bolts, 5.11, 60 feet.

Pitch 4. Step across the chimney and onto the summit section of the tower. Pass a bolt, and face climb left then back right to the summit of the tower. Belay at 4 good bolts, 5.10, 25 feet.

To descend: rappel the route with one 60m rope.

Location

This is located approximately 1 hour hike up Mee Canyon. It is directly across from The Arch Tower and on the same ridge as the The Garston Trout.

Protection

1 each: green, yellow, and red Alien (or equivalent).
2-3 each: #0.75 to #3 Camalot.
1-2 each: #4 to #5 Camalot.
Optional #6 Camalot.
J. Thompson
denver, co
  5.11
J. Thompson   denver, co
  5.11
My personal comments on the route.

This was a fantastic trip!

Loading up a raft with climbing gear and heading down river is a woonderful way to climb.
We named the Tower "Surf and Turf Tower". We felt since there were clearly a couple more routes to be done on the tower that the route and the tower should have seperate names. This will hopefully avoid confusion should these other routes get climbed.

The first 2 pitchs were onsighted on the FA.
Pitch 3 will go free without too much effort. All but about 8ft were onsighted on the FA.

All of the anchors are absolutely bomber. All bolts are Rawls, each anchor has one 1/2" by at least 4"(the top 2 anchors are 4.5 ") and all of the 3/8" bolts are 3 inchers.

Hopefully more folks will have the opportunity to enjoy this route!

josh Oct 6, 2010
Cool! Great line on a fine formation. Must get back there one day.... Oct 19, 2010
J. Thompson
denver, co
  5.11
J. Thompson   denver, co
  5.11
The route now goes free At 5.11.

FFA: Craig Scariot.

Nice work Craig!

josh Mar 12, 2012

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