Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 125 ft|
|FA:||Bob Kerry, EFR, 1989|
|Page Views:||545 total, 6/month|
|Shared By:||Charles Vernon on Oct 3, 2010|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionThis route is 80-90 feet (the first five bolts) of exquisite, sustained 5.10 face climbing on great rock, followed by 30 feet of easy, loose climbing, followed by 5 feet of impossible but easily aided climbing. The last two sections knock a star off, but it's still a great route.
The pitch ends at a belay alcove from which 3 options are possible: (1) rappel from two pins and a nut (bring webbing and a knife!); (2) continue up "The Grunt," which is the crack system that diagonals up and right; (3) continue up "Buzzworm's Bad Teeth," 5.9+ (fa Charles Vernon and Slaton Whatley?), which is the left crack above the belay and leads to a tree for a rappel. We took option 3 which has some great corner crack climbing but was also extremely dirty and loose--we did our best to clean this up but some rotten stuff remains.
LocationThis is the first route right of the obvious chimney/gully that splits the dome in half. Look for a line of bolts which leads to a more broken section. To rappel from the first pitch, a 70 meter rope would definitely work and a 60 might. To rappel from the tree atop "Buzzworm's Bad Teeth," two ropes are necessary.
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