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Routes in Golder Dome

Buzzworm's Backyard T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dam Bureaucrats T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Klingons in the Neutral Zone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Ten Years After T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: EFR/ BKy 88
Page Views: 286 total · 18/month
Shared By: Dj telle on Oct 29, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Check out Bob Kerry's guide "Backcountry Rockclimbing in S. Az for more info about the route.

Another quality route up Golder !

Starts at ledge with tree and brown streaks. The route goes up the streaks to the dihedral on the left end of the lower face.
We found around 5 new bolts and no pin with some route finding involved to get to the dihedral. Big moves on slab. (10c) 140 ft.

Continue up fun cracks and flakes up to a bigger flake. Laybacks and slab moves lead to the two bolt belay. The guide recommends a #4 but we were fine with a #3 blue (.10) 85ft

Head left from the belay and climb the funky dihedral. Follow cracks and powerful laybacks up a seam. After crux, follow wider cracks and head right past some bulges and slight overhangs to a medium sized pine tree at the summit. (.10d) 160ft
The crux can be well protected just hang on and keep going. A worthy Sonoran alpine pitch with spice!


Additional info: Looks like the first pitch got all new bolts. The anchors on top of pitch 1 and 2 have old button heads so upgrading would be a good idea. Also, there are no rap bolts by the tree at the top. You can sling the tree.

Protection

Doubles from 00 to #3. 15 slings
2 ropes.
Rap the route

Photos

Pin was pulled, with the new gear there is still good protection. Thought we upgraded all the anchors but I guess not. Next trip. May 14, 2017

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