Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: EFR/ BKy 88
Page Views: 376 total · 15/month
Shared By: Dj telle on Oct 29, 2016
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Check out Bob Kerry's guide "Backcountry Rockclimbing in S. Az for more info about the route.

Another quality route up Golder !

Starts at ledge with tree and brown streaks. The route goes up the streaks to the dihedral on the left end of the lower face.
We found around 5 new bolts and no pin with some route finding involved to get to the dihedral. Big moves on slab. (10c) 140 ft.

Continue up fun cracks and flakes up to a bigger flake. Laybacks and slab moves lead to the two bolt belay. The guide recommends a #4 but we were fine with a #3 blue (.10) 85ft

Head left from the belay and climb the funky dihedral. Follow cracks and powerful laybacks up a seam. After crux, follow wider cracks and head right past some bulges and slight overhangs to a medium sized pine tree at the summit. (.10d) 160ft
The crux can be well protected just hang on and keep going. A worthy Sonoran alpine pitch with spice!

Additional info: Looks like the first pitch got all new bolts. The anchors on top of pitch 1 and 2 have old button heads so upgrading would be a good idea. Also, there are no rap bolts by the tree at the top. You can sling the tree.

Protection

Doubles from 00 to #3. 15 slings
2 ropes.
Rap the route

Photos

1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
Pin was pulled, with the new gear there is still good protection. Thought we upgraded all the anchors but I guess not. Next trip. May 14, 2017
greg k
 
greg k  
 
best climb in Catalinas? on par with, if not better than, rapture and odyssey at the reef.
the 3rd pitch anchors are still there: trend slightly *left* after the initial difficulties.
although the 2nd and 3rd pitch anchors looked solid, we opted to walk off the back in order to keep our ropes from catching on one of the many flakes.
this wall is amazing! thanks to the FAs for putting up such an incredible route! 3 days ago