Klingons in the Neutral Zone
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||EFR/ BKy 88|
|Page Views:||286 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||Dj telle on Oct 29, 2016|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionCheck out Bob Kerry's guide "Backcountry Rockclimbing in S. Az for more info about the route.
Another quality route up Golder !
Starts at ledge with tree and brown streaks. The route goes up the streaks to the dihedral on the left end of the lower face.
We found around 5 new bolts and no pin with some route finding involved to get to the dihedral. Big moves on slab. (10c) 140 ft.
Continue up fun cracks and flakes up to a bigger flake. Laybacks and slab moves lead to the two bolt belay. The guide recommends a #4 but we were fine with a #3 blue (.10) 85ft
Head left from the belay and climb the funky dihedral. Follow cracks and powerful laybacks up a seam. After crux, follow wider cracks and head right past some bulges and slight overhangs to a medium sized pine tree at the summit. (.10d) 160ft
The crux can be well protected just hang on and keep going. A worthy Sonoran alpine pitch with spice!
Additional info: Looks like the first pitch got all new bolts. The anchors on top of pitch 1 and 2 have old button heads so upgrading would be a good idea. Also, there are no rap bolts by the tree at the top. You can sling the tree.