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Routes in Main Slab

Gully to Prow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Peel T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 1 S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 2 S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 3 S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown 4 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 5 S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown G S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,198 total, 14/month
Shared By: TBD on Aug 24, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Start to the right of Orange Peel. Follow the line of bolts up through the roof above.

Eds. there is a variation that goes left after the 8th bolt to a separate set of anchors.

Location

This is to the right of Orange Peel, and it is currently the 3rd bolted route from the left. See the photo.

Protection

13 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Eds. note that the 2 anchor bolts here appear to be set in a protrusion of rock that could be weakened with a freeze/thaw cycle. One could back up the anchors with #2 1/2 and #3 Friends and 4+ foot slings.

Photos

Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.10a
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.10a
'Tis a bit licheny and slick until it cleans up with use, and as such felt harder than most 5.9s. But when cleaner, 5.9 may be about right. Top anchors seem sketchy: too close to the edge of the rock, so not much rock thickness/strength holding them, and one of them flexes under load as if not tight in the hole. Take some gear to back them up. Sep 21, 2012
Good route, 3 stars. 5.9 is about the grade. Note that this has about 13 bolts, so bring full draw collection! Aug 21, 2011