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Routes in Colchuck Peak

Colchuck Glacier 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Easy Snow
Holsten-Hilden WI3 M6
North Buttress Couloir Steep Snow
Northeast Couloir
Type: Snow, Alpine, 3100 ft, Grade II
FA: Elvin and Norma Johnson and William and Kathy Long, August 1948
Page Views: 1,730 total, 19/month
Shared By: Wesley Ashwood on Aug 2, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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From the base of the glacier ascend easy snow on the left (east) lobe of the glacier past the base of Dragontail's Serpentine and Backbone Ridge. The glacier steepens just before the Dragontail-Colchuck Saddle with about 100 ft of 40 degree snow. Scramble 3rd class sandy steps to the summit plateau at about 8,500 ft. Continue west and north to the true summit (8,705 ft) which provides awesome views of Stuart and Dragontail.

3,100 feet, grade II is from Colchuck Lake. The route could easily be done from the trailhead in the day with a longer approach.


Start from the north shore of Colchuck lake about 5.5 miles from the Stuart Lake-Colchuck Lake Trailhead. Gain the crest of the lateral moraine as soon as possible to avoid some really loose scree and talus. Continue up to the base of the glacier.

Descend the route.


Ice axe and crampons.