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Routes in Colchuck Peak

Colchuck Glacier 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Easy Snow
Holsten-Hilden WI3 M6 Steep Snow
North Buttress Couloir Steep Snow
Northeast Buttress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northeast Couloir Steep Snow
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Type: Snow, Alpine
FA: Ray Lilleby and Jim Wickwire (July 1962)
Page Views: 1,818 total · 36/month
Shared By: Shaun Johnson on Jul 28, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

A perfect introduction to steep snow and easy mixed climbing. As soon as the trailhead opens this thing is usually in condition. Many climbers go fast and light using very little gear; However it can also be done as a fully protected climb using some rock gear, pickets and screws. With amazing views of the Stuart Range, this thing should qualify for any climbers tick list.

Location

From the far side of Colchuck Lake, hike uphill and gain the Moraine. Follow the Moraine to the right and eventually drop into the large couloir.

Descent via the backside and then down Colchuck Glacier.

Protection

rock gear, pickets and screws

Photos

Nick Sweeney
Spokane, WA
  Steep Snow
Nick Sweeney   Spokane, WA
  Steep Snow
Do not underestimate route finding challenges beyond the notch. The couloir itself was trivial but it is very easy to get lost on the North Face. Apr 12, 2016

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