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Routes in Breezy Point Main Wall

Crimp-son & Clover T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Disneyland S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Floridays S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
For What It's Worth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lazy Afternoon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Le Rêve T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
PodnMe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spunky Monkey T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Lane Smith & Mark Jacobs 1980 Ground Up
Page Views: 143 total, 2/month
Shared By: Jerry W on Jul 22, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Climb the low-angle crack to gain the pod. From the pod move up and over the bulge and enjoy the finger crack as it widens up. Great finger locks get you through the roof and to a good chockstone at about 50'. Another 35' of hands gets you to a good flake and a rest where the crack widens up. 15' up a squeeze chimney and you're saved. Marginal feet - mostly smearing and camming. Steep and physical the whole way!

Location

Middle crack on the wall. The start is in on a grass ledge mid-way up the wall, behind the fin system.

Protection

Cams: .56-3.51”, Nuts.
Descent: Needles rappel or down-climb off the backside.

Photos

ShanJ2me
Rapid City, SD
  5.10
ShanJ2me   Rapid City, SD
  5.10
Clean and death block gone. This is one of the best crack climbs in the Rushmore Needles!! Hard moves- Great gear! As Jimmy D said "crux is not where you expect "- especially if your short (like Me)!! Aug 27, 2017
Zach Keeney
Cheyenne, WY
  5.10d
Zach Keeney   Cheyenne, WY
  5.10d
Watch out for the 400lb detached flake towards the top. It would be ideal to remove it. Good route but it is really dirty and needs more traffic. Jul 12, 2015
Jimmy D
Rapid City
  5.10+
Jimmy D   Rapid City
  5.10+
This is a wild and fun route! Gear is pretty thin for the first 25 feet or so, but the rest of the route takes great gear. The crux will find you... and its not where you expect!! Get on it!! Jul 7, 2015