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Routes in Winona, Sugar Loaf

Air Pig S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amoeba Route S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Buzz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Face S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Exterminator, The S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
First lead S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Franklin's Tower S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Room S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leftover Salmon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lonely Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
NW corner S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
One Eyed Lady S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Ramp Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rope Thief S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Running Scared S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Saga, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sherriff, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Six Pack S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Face Overhang S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Winona Alpine Club S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
pillar, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Franklin Hessler 6/13/10
Page Views: 2,526 total · 27/month
Shared By: Frank Hessler on Jun 14, 2010 with updates
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

There are a lot of good holds for hands and really good feet for most of the route.

Location

The route starts on the right hand side of the back of Sugar Loaf (facing away from the river)with a low bolt. Climb to the top and clip the chains, rappel down.

Protection

There are 5 bolts, 4 are new. 4-5 quickdraws are recommended depending on skill level.

Photos

Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.6
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.6
If you set the top rope on this line there is like 3 variations you can do (watch out for a little swing)

You can pull over the small roof which is fun, maybe 5.8

You can climb the blank looking face to the right down low. If you don't use the arete and stay just on the face I'd give it maybe 5.10 or just a short V2 boulder problem.

Or out left of this route directly up under another bolt there is a short section of 5.8 or 5.9 climbing.

Nothing too great but some good variations to try for fun after you already went on top and took pictures :) Oct 20, 2014
I climbed here 25 years ago and put anchor bolts at the top of this route. We always called it optional protection as I have trad led it but with a huge runout. I always climbed it up and over the small roof to the left. The next line over to the left was Ouch (5.7) then Mesopotamia (5.6). Oct 25, 2013
Randers
Waukesha, WI
Randers   Waukesha, WI
My parents recently moved into this area so we were visiting them for the weekend. Enjoyed climbing at sugar loaf this past Saturday. Climbed some of the bolted routes on the back. Fun times. Oct 18, 2010
Frank Hessler
Winona, MN
Frank Hessler   Winona, MN
There are a few bolted routes on the south side of the Sugarloaf. There is one classic bolted route on the rock, it is not very trad friendly. The north face is not accessible. East and west are not too good either. Sep 2, 2010
Nathan Migdal
Bloomington, mn
Nathan Migdal   Bloomington, mn
There has to be more routes on the sugar loaf... at least some trad potential. Until your post, I had never even heard about this formation. Looks promising, at least in the photos posted. Are there more than two established routes here? Jul 14, 2010
fat cow
St. Paul, MN
fat cow   St. Paul, MN
what about the other route eh, wonder what its called Jun 14, 2010