Elevation: 1,058 ft
GPS: 44.02836, -91.62665
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 75,743 total · 487/month
Shared By: EB on Jun 14, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Kris Gorny, K Ice

Description

Sugar Loaf is an iconic place in Winona, MN. Sitting approx 600 ft above Winona, the Sugarloaf is a unique man-made tower; a result from quarrying in the 1800s. It offers routes on all aspects of the tower ranging from 5.3- 5.11 in difficulty. The majority of routes are in the 5.6-5.9 range. Currently 28 lead routes and a few additional top rope anchors with approx 8-12 more routes to be bolted. Most anchors have stainless steel wiregate biners at the anchors for easy TRing and cleaning. Almost all anchors are glue in bolts with the remaining expansion bolts slated to be removed by the end of 2017. There is a comprehensive trail plan approved by the city that will offer better access and develop the park as a designated rock climbing area. Routes are listed beginning on the NW corner and moving right from there around the formation.

Getting There

At the intersection of Mankato Ave and Highway 61 in Winona, head south on 43 to a quick right hand turn to E Lake Blvd to a parking area with signs for" Sugarloaf Trailhead parking". The trailhead is behind edina reality. Please do not park in the Treasure Under Sugarloaf parking lot or Edina Reality's lot. All parking is on the side of the road.

37 Total Climbs

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Location: Winona, Sugar Loaf Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Winona, Sugar Loaf

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 29
Franklin's Tower
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 17
The Exterminator
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 15
The Saga
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 16
Franklin's Direct
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 18
West Face Overhang
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 20
Keystone Light
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
Fear and Loafing
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 22
The Sherriff
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 12
Air Pig
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 28
Running Scared
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 18
Winona Alpine Club
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
The Deputy
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 17
Rope Thief
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 5
Running Scared Direct
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
The Beekeeper
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Franklin's Tower
 29
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
The Exterminator
 17
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Saga
 15
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Franklin's Direct
 16
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
West Face Overhang
 18
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Keystone Light
 20
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Fear and Loafing
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Sherriff
 22
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Air Pig
 12
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Running Scared
 28
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Winona Alpine Club
 18
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Deputy
 6
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Rope Thief
 17
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Running Scared Direct
 5
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
The Beekeeper
 5
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR
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