Type: Boulder, 12 ft (4 m)
FA: Tommy Caldwell
Page Views: 1,980 total · 12/month
Shared By: Captain Derp on Jun 5, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Climb bad slopers on the west face, right of the giant overhang. It looks like it tops out onto a slab that one can downclimb. I'm not sure, since I haven't done this problem. This looks pretty sick, so I thought I would post it.

Per Sean Patrickstart on the positive, 2 pad-deep, 3-4 finger pocket (from the ground if you're 6 foot+, or stack however many pads you need to reach it if you aren't), and fire up on good, positive slopers and a rad pinch/finger lock. The grade isn't determined by how you start in that pocket-- it's determined by the hard bit above.

The hard bit is manteling onto the slab above, which, incidentally, is a bit high, and over an ankle-turner. You'll need to grab some pretty small features, but they don't feel tweaky to me - just fun tech holds. I used a rope (40m?) to drop down and clean it off, which was expedient for the send for me in December 2022.

This is on one of the best boulders at Lumpy, is rarely done, and is worth a go if you are in the area. I think it's fair to say that it's good value for the grade.

The holds at 5 feet are for the "V11 sit" start and are polished to a greasy buff by every climber walking by for the past 50 years and feeling them and saying "this feels impossible". Damned techy for the V9/10 climber ape (i.e. me), the lower start also strikes me as good value for its grade.

Location Suggest change

This is to the right of the bolts. It's pretty obvious from the trail.

Protection Suggest change

Pads and a spotter.