Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Jon and Amy Stewart 2/8/06
Page Views: 1,431 total · 14/month
Shared By: Ebb Ebbing on May 19, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

Starts from Cloud 9 Ledge. A bit of an adventure for Ozone! (See info in "location" section on how to access the start). From the belay anchor, traverse right around the corner to a ledge. The crux is just above the ledge at the start of the climb. Head up the face, following the bolt line. Protect runouts with gear. At the top of the wall, move left about 20 feet to the "A Love Supreme" anchor. Two rappels.

Location

Starts from the Cloud 9 Ledge (to the right of "Heaven's Ledge"). To access it, start climbing "Stairway to Heaven." After the 2nd bolt, traverse up and right to another bolt. After that, gear protects to the ledge and belay anchor. (Same as pitch 1 of "A Love Supreme.")

2 rappels down from the top anchors.

Protection

Gear to 1" and bolts (4 or 5? - at least one more than the 3 shown in the Ozone guidebook). Anchors at top.

Photos

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Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.8
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.8
This route has five bolts, plus a bolt to protect the traverse to the anchors. It looks like this bolt used to be part of an anchor but the other one got chopped. Once you step around the corner, there is a perfect nut slot to protect the move up to the first bolt.

The route is rather tricky to find... we first tried the routes directly above and to the left of Cloud 9 ledge. Both are majorly runout with sparse/nonexistent gear placements (maybe due to all the vegetation?). I have no intention of going back to do those routes. This one is quite fun, however, with a little exposure around the corner, and a SWEET view from the top. Nov 11, 2010
I will be adding at least 2 bolts to A Love Supreme so that you won't have to bring 5 (.75 camolots) that have stacked scetchy placements. A Love Supreme is one of my most favorite climbs, but your right about the runouts on scetchy gear. Probably has to due to me climbing it ground up in the winter with a head full of arrogance. Don't have that head anymore.

A Bitches Brew (5.9) will remain runout as its a perfect top rope and a heady lead.

Will also be replacing the anchor for Hang Up Your Hang Ups. Also a favorite moderate of mine.

Jon Stewart Nov 13, 2013
Topher Dabrowski
Portland, OR
  5.8
Topher Dabrowski   Portland, OR
  5.8
No run outs on this route. Protect the start with a bigger nut and then 6 QDs get you to the anchors. Clipping the last bolt before traversing to the anchors helps keep the rope running cleanly for a top belay setup. Apr 19, 2015
BrianWilson
Brush Prairie, Washington
 
BrianWilson   Brush Prairie, Washington
 
Between the three climbs from Cloud 9 this was easily the dirtiest. Did what I could with my nut tool! Fun sport 5.8 Apr 28, 2016
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
  5.8
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
  5.8
Route has cleaned up well. Over-bolted perhaps, but super fun jugs. May 25, 2016