Mountain Project Logo

Routes in New Land

Black Dahlia, The V10 7C+
Groundation V9 7C PG13
Obelisk, The V9 7C PG13
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 166 total, 2/month
Shared By: tcamillieri on Apr 15, 2010
Admins: Aeon Aki, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The crux is moving through a series of fun dead points (a toehook (under) on the arete is very useful for balance). Groundation is the face with a series of shallow hueco's that affords small crimps and a pinch or two down low. Top out straight up. Very worthy, fun and proud.

Location

From the Obelisk go over the top of the boulder and down into a wash. There will be a wall with two problems on it (the 2nd one going downhill is currently a project). The next route down is Groundation.

Protection

At least three pads. The top out is to be reckoned with and I would recommend going up there and brushing holds to become acquainted with it (and get rid of the new sand that is all to likely redeposited itself since the last time someone brushed it).

Photos

- No Photos -
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
This climb is mistakenly? called 'Sleeper' in the Caldiero guidebook and given v7.

Here's video of the FA to clarify that they are the same:

youtube.com/watch?v=oHFxeE2… Jun 2, 2017
tcamillieri
Denver
 
tcamillieri   Denver
 
Peter,
I don't recall campusing from the pinches on the arete. I believe there is a heel hook on the left and you can squeeze a toe with the right for the first move. I found the crux to be the next three moves. At any rate a very nice hard moderate in a place stacked with them. May 8, 2010
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
  V9 PG13
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
  V9 PG13
Awesome, awesome problem. A quick campus move and a long deadpoint get things started. The crux is low, but don't underestimate the top even though it looks straightforward. May 2, 2010