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Routes in Sleeper Area

Black Dahlia, The V10 7C+
Groundation V9 7C PG13
Obelisk, The V9 7C PG13
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Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 272 total · 3/month
Shared By: tcamillieri on Apr 15, 2010
Admins: Aeon Aki, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The crux is getting the right hand pinch on the arete and moving to the lip. A slightly overhanging crimp and compression problem that is sure to become a classic. PG-13 rating because while it is not super tall I did think I was going to die when I did it. And yes... that divot taken out of the right hand crimp at the lip is from my foot crumpling as I did the committing mantle.

Location

The route is up and left from the intersection mentioned in the intro to this area. The Obelisk is mainly visible from the road and begins on a jug and moves rightward on a series of crimps to an arete (but not around the arete) and stays true to the face until the "lip encounter."

Protection

Many pads and a good spotter. The top section is to be reckoned with for sure and will clean up well after a few more ascents, but still has some loose sand up there.

Photos

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Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
 
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
 
This would be an all-out classic were it not for the annoying boulder just to the right that's just asking for a dab. May 2, 2010
tcamillieri
Denver
 
tcamillieri   Denver
 
Or a death. I was really scared of it doing this problem. Like bounce and roll. May 8, 2010

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