Type: Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m), Grade IV
FA: Jean Antoine and Louis Carrel (Italy)
Page Views: 1,639 total · 12/month
Shared By: Eric Rich on Mar 17, 2010
Admins: Tony Yeary

You & This Route

7 Opinions

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Follow the moraine above the glacier until you are beyond the La Rampa Coulior and then drop right on to the glacier. Traverse right and then head up to reach a point to the right of a rock outcrop and head up. In dry conditions, this can be hard ice-gravel at 45 degrees. The slope slackens above and trends right-ward to a rightward traverse that brings you to a large crevasse. Depending on conditions, either cross the crevasse to the right on a snow bridge or cut back left into it and then climb out (may be overhanging). From here head straight up. Follow a rising traverse let until you are below the first ice summit, head up, and then traverse right below a rock summit and up to join a ridge. Cut below the main summit and then cut up left and follow the ridge to the summit.

NOTE: as conditions change season to season and even within seasons on this mountain, it is prudent to find a recent photo of the route or once again, consult with local outfitter's for beta.


3-4 ice screws
20-25 wands (you will likely be alone on the route; afternoon fog and storms are likely)
2 snow stakes
1 glacier rope (8mm 60m or whatever you prefer)