Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m)|
|Page Views:||474 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Seth Maciejowski on Feb 28, 2019|
Traverse above the Refugio on a bench heading south to scree slopes below the prominent first buttress of the east ridge. Gain the top of the first buttress by climbing directly up the face above the scree slopes on loose 4th class rock or gain it from the left in harder loose mixed terrain. Either way, traverse a knife edge of loose rock and volcanic dirt around a prominent tooth of rock and climb up more 4th class rock on another buttress to gain the crest again. Push on through a nice section of easy 5th on bomber cracks to reach the summit ridge. Rappel or down climb to the right about 50 meters to gain the top of the ice field on the regular route and finish up to the main summit. Descend the regular route.
Below freezing temps for this route are optimal as it would freeze the loose rock and mud together allowing for more secure footing.