Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 474 total · 15/month
Shared By: Seth Maciejowski on Feb 28, 2019
Admins: Tony Yeary

You & This Route

2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


A big ridge of crumbly volcanic rock on a fine Andean summit.  Lots of 4th class and easy 5th class climbing and possibly mixed sections depending on conditions.  
Traverse above the Refugio on a bench heading south to scree slopes below the prominent first buttress of the east ridge. Gain the top of the first buttress by climbing directly up the face above the scree slopes on loose 4th class rock or gain it from the left in harder loose mixed terrain.  Either way, traverse a knife edge of loose rock and volcanic dirt around a prominent tooth of rock and climb up more 4th class rock on another buttress to gain the crest again.  Push on through a nice section of easy 5th on bomber cracks to reach the summit ridge.  Rappel or down climb to the right about 50 meters to gain the top of the ice field on the regular route and finish up to the main summit.  Descend the regular route.

Below freezing temps for this route are optimal as it would freeze the loose rock and mud together allowing for more secure footing.


The start is inobvious in the dark and I’d recommend scouting it the day before.  Approach as for Illiniza Norte and move south across the bench above the Refugio near a small tarn which serves as the water supply for the Refugio. Make your way up and left toward the prominent ridge finding a line of weakness up to the base of the first buttress.


Double length runners and single cams to red Camelot should suffice. Bring 3-4 screws for potential ice pro and for the decent. Bring a selection of double length runners for rigging rappels if necessary and for slinging blocks for pro on the way up.