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Routes in Viagra Tower

Shaft, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Viagra Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Winger T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Woofers T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
ZigZag TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 970 total · 10/month
Shared By: Markk Knowles on Feb 28, 2010
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

No matter how you start, you end up in the crack and have a solid, clean route up.

Location

?

Protection

Two bolts anchor with a screw link to rap down from.

Photos

Dallas R
Traveling the USA
Dallas R   Traveling the USA
In the Jason Martin book "Fun Climbs Red Rock" this climb is listed as Viagra Tower #5 at 5.7. We top roped it by going left from the base and scrambling. There is a little exposure on the down climb to get to the anchors, but not bad.

On the scramble for the TR don't go too high right, keep to easier route left and around corner. Being new to Trad we think this route may be easily protected from the ground up and have plans to come back for that purpose. I think it is a little more than 40' feet, but a 60m rope works just fine.

Anchor and chains appear to be in good condition. Apr 5, 2016
Mark P Thomas
Draper
 
Mark P Thomas   Draper
 
In the photo shown, the final section is the crux, and it has no reliable pro and a ledge-fall potential. I backed off after seeing that the pro was not good and it is easy to fall (and hit a ledge) while placing. You can exit left via a very chill leaning crack climb to the Winger/Woofers anchors.

It looks like you could also traverse very far right and finish up a gully, but that option looks much easier & less fun.

My follower tried placing gear at the crux, fell, and hit a ledge even with good gear placed as high as possible before the stance (fortunately it was glancing enough that her ankle only got mildly swollen). We checked out the direct topout on TR, and it is very physical and committing for 5.6, some holds break, and I doubt the gear would hold a fall if you could even get it in at the crux, so the ledge hit would be way worse. So I'd say this direct finish is only suitable for leaders VERY strong at 5.6 who don't mind running out the crux.

The anchors to the direct finish are very easily accessible by scrambling over from the Winger/Woofers anchors. Jan 31, 2016
Did a couple of different variations on the start of the route as compared to the Beta pic. But no matter how you start, you end up in the crack and have a solid, clean route up to two bolts with a screw link to rap down from. Nov 30, 2011
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
Bolted anchor; easy to access. Aug 31, 2010

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