Route Number 9
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Routes in Lover's Leap
|Route Number 9 M5 R|
|Type:||Mixed, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||850 total, 9/month|
|Shared By:||Brian Tessier on Dec 6, 2009|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThe route ascends a corner/gully system to the right of the main buttress and left of the "Licorice Reunion Buttress". Approach via the scree gully and belay at a pine tree below a obvious corner with a small roof.
The description is based on conditions found.
P1. Climb up a right-leaning slab with an overlap on the left to a shallow left trending gully. Follow this gully to a belay at 2 bolts w/ slings on the right hand wall, M4+ R.
P2. From the belay, climb out left to a V-shaped corner place a #3 Camalot under an overlap and then ascend the corner (look for fixed wired stopper). Leader needs to be creative with gear on this section. Continue up a shallow, snow-filled gully to its end, climb a 12' high rock wall on the right to a large ledge. Multiple choices for a belay anchor, M5+.
P3. From the belay ledge, look over to climber's right and locate a large, left-facing corner and move the belay if necessary. Climb this corner to the top of the buttress. Jon and I did not climb this due to adverse weather conditions, too warm and delaminating ice, WI4-M4?