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Routes in Ship Rock
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Beckey Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4 PG13 |
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Friggin' in the Riggin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3- PG13 |
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Long's Couloir T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Moby Dike T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C0 |
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Secret Passage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2 PG13 |
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Southeast Buttress T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 1200 ft (364 m), 10 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Pat Goodman, John (Verm) Sherman |
| Page Views: | 6,077 total · 37/month |
| Shared By: | Pat Goodman on Nov 23, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski |
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Access Issue: Ship Rock is located on the Navajo Nation
Details
Climbing is ILLEGAL on the Navajo Nation including Ship Rock. According to the most recently published guide on Ship Rock ("Desert Rock", and "50 Classics.."), Ship Rock was placed off limits to climbing in 1967, but the ban was not enforced until 1970, following an accident.
It is probably legal to drive to the base. It is reportedly illegal to camp there. However widespread litter suggests that this is a popular "party spot" (which may be deterrent in of itself). It is illegal to collect or remove rocks on the Navajo Nation, without a permit.
This area is included on MP for historical purposes and to inform would-be suitors that climbing Ship Rock is illegal.
It is probably legal to drive to the base. It is reportedly illegal to camp there. However widespread litter suggests that this is a popular "party spot" (which may be deterrent in of itself). It is illegal to collect or remove rocks on the Navajo Nation, without a permit.
This area is included on MP for historical purposes and to inform would-be suitors that climbing Ship Rock is illegal.
Access Issue: Climbing on the Navajo Nation is ILLEGAL.
Details
This area is included on MP for historical purposes and to inform would-be suitors that climbing here is illegal.
Description
The "Moby Dike" is the first (and only as of 2009) all free route that climbs to the main summit of Shiprock. It was climbed ground-up and onsite.
The meat of the climbing is pitches 5-6 they are protected with a mix of gear and bolts on good rock - for Shiprock that is.
The meat of the climbing is pitches 5-6 they are protected with a mix of gear and bolts on good rock - for Shiprock that is.
Location
Start on the west face in Longs Col. When the gully ends in the big bowl below the N. and Main summits, the "Dike" will be obvious! It's the big vein of black basalt heading up the west face to the saddle between the two summits.
Follow the dike up and left to the saddle, eventually landing you on the east face after 3 pitches of climbing.
Traverse left (to the south)then up good cracks on the N.E. face of the Main summit.
Follow the dike up and left to the saddle, eventually landing you on the east face after 3 pitches of climbing.
Traverse left (to the south)then up good cracks on the N.E. face of the Main summit.
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