Type: Trad, 1200 ft (364 m), 10 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Pat Goodman, John (Verm) Sherman
Page Views: 5,489 total · 39/month
Shared By: Pat Goodman on Nov 23, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Ship Rock is located on the Navajo Nation Details
Access Issue: Climbing on the Navajo Nation is ILLEGAL. Details

Description

The "Moby Dike" is the first (and only as of 2009) all free route that climbs to the main summit of Shiprock. It was climbed ground-up and onsite.
The meat of the climbing is pitches 5-6 they are protected with a mix of gear and bolts on good rock - for Shiprock that is.

Location

Start on the west face in Longs Col. When the gully ends in the big bowl below the N. and Main summits, the "Dike" will be obvious! It's the big vein of black basalt heading up the west face to the saddle between the two summits.
Follow the dike up and left to the saddle, eventually landing you on the east face after 3 pitches of climbing.
Traverse left (to the south)then up good cracks on the N.E. face of the Main summit.

Protection

Double ropes, set of nuts, cams to 2" loads of long slings...

Photos