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Routes in Wind Wall

Deranged Of Late S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rocket Man T,S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ropeless Romantic S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Space Cowboy T,S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Spaceman Spiff T,S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
St. Stephen S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Teetering On The Brink Of Madness S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Threshold T,S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Topcat S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: Steve Grossman & Rich Thompson (1976)
Page Views: 121 total · 1/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on Oct 25, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

A delicate, fun seam that gets progressively easier. The crux comes prior to the first bolt but can be protected with a nut if one is persistent. I was amazed and grateful that the crux protects as well as it did.

Location

On the right side of the Wind Wall, Threshold is the obvious seam directly across from Holey Moley, which is on the New Wave Wall.

Protection

2 bolts, small gear, anchors.

Note the anchors consist of one chain and one hefty bolt. A clean rappel is difficult since the bolt is higher than the chain and the bolt appeared sharp. It is probably best to leave a quickdraw in the bolt and grab it on the hike out.

The anchors can easily be reached from above, making for a safe top rope or quick rappel in.

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Nice job John, not too many people ever do this route anymore. It was a bit of a test piece back in the day as the pro which is good took some effort to place. Oct 25, 2009
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
 
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
 
Thanks. This was actually one of the first routes I touched upon moving to Tucson. Back then I didn't know anyone and self-belayed it. It was great to be able to do it from the ground up. Oct 25, 2009
John Hayes
Bend, OR
  5.10a
John Hayes   Bend, OR
  5.10a
Heck, this used to be one of my favorite routes! It's not a classic, but I really liked the moves. Having the right RP for that first move is important though. Feb 15, 2015

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