Type: Trad, TR, 75 ft (23 m)
FA: Mike Argueso and Jamie Drizan, 1989
Page Views: 296 total · 17/month
Shared By: Nick Henscheid on May 27, 2020
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route


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Description

Space Cowboy's harder, scarier and less interesting twin brother.  This climb sports several difficult bulge/mantle moves, at least one of which (just after the first non-Space Cowboy bolt) is poorly protected and has serious ledge fall risk.  The midway crux is reasonably well protected, but very cryptic and involves high feet and either a sideways mantle or some nasty crimps.  Felt 5.11 at first, but a second attempt revealed a 5.10(+) method.

I must admit that I have only inspected this route on TR solo. It's a bold lead that I'll have to come back to.  Plan on doing hard moves in no-fall territory and less-than-ideal pro.  On the bright side, the bolts are brand new (replaced by CASA in 2016).

Well worth top-roping after leading Space Cowboy if you're not up for the lead.

Location

First bolt line to the right of Space Cowboy.  Splits off from Space Cowboy after the first bolt, then rejoins to share the anchor.  Start as for Space Cowboy by wandering up the easy slab towards a bolt about 30 feet up.  Or, to keep the spice, start directly under the line and skip Space Cowboy's first bolt.  This adds a fun 10a boulder problem to the start, but you must run it out about 35 feet to the first bolt.

Protection

3 new bolts and otherwise somewhat meager pro, heavy on the smaller stuff. Bring a full range of stoppers, and maybe single cams 0.1-0.5.  Shares two-bolt anchor with Space Cowboy.

Photos