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Routes in Wind Wall

Deranged Of Late S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rocket Man T,S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ropeless Romantic S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Space Cowboy T,S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Spaceman Spiff T,S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
St. Stephen S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Teetering On The Brink Of Madness S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Threshold T,S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Topcat S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 75 ft
FA: Bob Kerry and Charlie Rollins 1989
Page Views: 3,471 total · 26/month
Shared By: David C. Burke on Mar 11, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


56 Opinions

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Description

This route starts at a low angle ramp just left of the middle of Wind Wall. Face climb past three bolts to a crack in a groove. The crux is a tricky sequence right around the third bolt.

Protection

There are 5 bolts on this route and a light rack will suffice to protect the rest. I bring a #3 camalot for a spot just above the third bolt a few small cams and a set of nuts. Chain anchors at the top.

Photos

The fixed anchors (bolts and/or top-anchors) on Space Cowboy have been replaced. For more information on CASA's anchor replacement efforts and for a complete list of updated climbs: theclimbershome.org/anchor-… Mar 5, 2017
Tatiana Cottam
Oakland, CA
 
Tatiana Cottam   Oakland, CA
 
No. Just say no.
This route is sketchy af. Oct 30, 2016
Nick Henscheid
Tucson, AZ
  5.9+
Nick Henscheid   Tucson, AZ
  5.9+
I think this climb is quite good as a pure lead onsight, but probably not as good otherwise. Some of the movement is inobvious and technical, some of the gear is pretty small and fiddly, and if you're not careful you can miss a good placement and find yourself 15 feet above the last bolt wondering what you missed. Gear beta: tiny to medium nuts and cams 00-0.5. I placed 2 blue (#1) Metolius. Mar 5, 2016
Brandon Baldwin
Sahuarita, AZ
  5.9+
Brandon Baldwin   Sahuarita, AZ
  5.9+
We weren't planning on climbing in this area, but rain in our planned area forced us to Windy Point. I had only brought agressive down turned climbing shoes and my toes were killing me especially at the stance to clip the third bolt. I would recommend some climbing shoes that smear well for the early slabby moves. The crux is just above the third bolt (glad that bolt was there!) and I felt the best climbing was from the crux to the top, but I am not a fan slab work. Trying to place gear above the fourth bolt kept this climb exciting. I only brought nuts with me this time and I liked the placements, so I wouldn't carry anything different next time. Jul 15, 2013
Awwww, Peter. Too bad you had a bad time on this route. Most people like it and it's an acknowledged three star classic.
Sounds like you need a hug, brother.

There's one in every crowd. Sep 10, 2012
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
  5.9+
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
  5.9+
This route is abysmally bad, and I found virtually nothing redeeming about it. The rock is solid, so I guess that's good.

The movement is terrible, the bolt placements are bad, the protection isn't great, and it's just not fun. I'd avoid it if at all possible. May 27, 2012
Dan Carter
Las Cruces, NM
 
Dan Carter   Las Cruces, NM
 
Fun climb. First trad/mix lead of this grade for me. I only used nuts and even slung a chickenhead. I agree that the crux is around the third bolt but the rest is keeps one attentive. Feb 16, 2010
A Terray
San Diego, CA
 
A Terray   San Diego, CA
 
Absolutely outstanding for the grade - very sustained, varied movies, nice exposure! Favorite climb at the Lemmon! Jun 24, 2009
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.9+
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.9+
Great route. I only found 4 bolts and didn't place anything larger than a .75 however. Apr 25, 2009