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Routes in The Widow's Tears Area

Lurch, The T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Silver Strand WI5
Widow's Tears WI5
Windchill T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Windfall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Windjammer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Mark Chapman, Kevin Worrall, 1976
Page Views: 1,849 total, 19/month
Shared By: Alexey on Oct 22, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

P1. Thin crack, some off-fingers, hard for 10a, 70feet
p2. Crux of the route- turning the lip of 5 feet roof . Hard for 11a, or I did not figured out the right move. 70 feet
p3. Traverse to the base of p4. short pitch 70 of 5.8
p4. Awesome overhanging hands and fists. Remind me Pink Think at Indian creek, but much harder. I used 3 #1, 3#2, 2#3 , 1#4 Camalots and , 1#4 Friend for this pitch. 120 feet, 5.11a
p5. Thin hands, off-fingers, fingers, low angle great pitch- 120 feet 10c.
We did rappels with one 70m rope. No bolts, slings around the trees

Update from sept2012
Attention: rappel trees for last two rappels seems too scary and difficult to back up.
Whoever goes there to climb Windfall and Windjammer - take a bolt kit with you to make rappel safe

Protection

Double from green alien to #4 Camelot. Plus extra #1 and #2 Camalots for p4

Getting There

Approach: Park at Wawona Tunnel Lot and walk east, down the road, towards the Valley. You can see the Widow's Tears Amphitheater from the road. The route is on the buttress that forms the right side of the amphitheater.

Look for a large, deep natural drainage down off the right side of the road - it's a ways down the road. Start hiking uphill just past this drainage. Go uphill through trees and mossy boulders until you reach an old roadbed that runs parallel to Highway 41.

A few cairns on the old road mark the spot to continue uphill. If you don't see them just continue uphill through a large talus field trending towards the right side of the formation. We found it easiest to follow the talus drainage all the way to the base of the wall, a few hundred meters right of the start of the route. This makes for an easier traverse over to the base.

Descent: You can rap Windfall with a single 70m rope in three rappels. As of 10/2014, the first rap anchor, at the top of the 10c splitter, consists of two nice fixed nuts and a sling. The next two stations are rat's nests of slings on decently solid trees. Consider bringing some webbing/cordage to clean up the rap anchors if you're planning on rapping the route.
Justin Johnsen
Nor Cal
Justin Johnsen   Nor Cal  
Thanks Gargano, added your bit to a boilerplate Getting There section. Dec 9, 2014
The pitch 2 roof is totally sandbagged, I could not figure out the moves pulling over the lip on terrible jams seemed more in the 12- range to me. Dec 6, 2014
Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
those " decently solid trees" is the time bomb.
Once I came up with bolt kit, but did not have time to drill.
Please consider to replace the slings crap with bolts Oct 6, 2014
Gargano
Oakland, CA
 
Gargano   Oakland, CA
 
Approach: Park at Wawona Tunnel Lot and walk east, down the road, towards the Valley. You can see the Widow's Tears Amphitheater from the road. The route is on the buttress that forms the right side of the amphitheater.

Look for a large, deep natural drainage down off the right side of the road - it's a ways down the road. Start hiking uphill just past this drainage. Go uphill through trees and mossy boulders until you reach an old roadbed that runs parallel to Highway 41.

A few cairns on the old road mark the spot to continue uphill. If you don't see them just continue uphill through a large talus field trending towards the right side of the formation. We found it easiest to follow the talus drainage all the way to the base of the wall, a few hundred meters right of the start of the route. This makes for an easier traverse over to the base.

Descent: You can rap Windfall with a single 70m rope in three rappels. As of 10/2014, the first rap anchor, at the top of the 10c splitter, consists of two nice fixed nuts and a sling. The next two stations are rat's nests of slings on decently solid trees. Consider bringing some webbing/cordage to clean up the rap anchors if you're planning on rapping the route. Oct 6, 2014
Summiting the wall via Wind Chill is adventurous and fun, but not as well-travelled as Windfall. As a bonus, you top out on Stanford Point and get to walk down on a signed NPS trail. Jun 7, 2013
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
The flake which comprises the first 30ft of the climb is very hollow and scary. I linked the first two pitches.

Pitch 4 looks very intimidating from below. This pitch is awesome. Some big cams (like a #5 Camalot) is nice to have to protect the start of the pitch. Pitch 5 is also nice, except for a scary block about 15ft up. Some of the rap trees are a little bit small and scary too.

Basically this is a very wild and adventurous feeling climb with little fixed pro, some loose rock, and a pretty remote location. Also very well shaded, breezy, and an excellent choice to beat the heat in summer. Jul 27, 2012