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Routes in R. The Widow's Tears Area
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Lurch, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Riding on the Wind T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Silver Strand WI5 |
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Widow's Tears WI5 |
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Windchill T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Windfall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Windjammer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches |
| GPS: | 37.70879, -119.66567 |
| FA: | Mark Chapman, Kevin Worrall, 1976 |
| Page Views: | 3,748 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Alexey Zelditch on Oct 22, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
P1. Thin crack, some off-fingers, hard for 10a, 70feet
p2. Crux of the route- turning the lip of 5 feet roof . Hard for 11a, or I did not figured out the right move. 70 feet
p3. Traverse to the base of p4. short pitch 70 of 5.8
p4. Awesome overhanging hands and fists. Remind me Pink Think at Indian creek, but much harder. I used 3 #1, 3#2, 2#3 , 1#4 Camalots and , 1#4 Friend for this pitch. 120 feet, 5.11a
p5. Thin hands, off-fingers, fingers, low angle great pitch- 120 feet 10c.
Descent (April 2025): All raps can be done with a single 70m. Rappel from the large tree at the top of P5, which had a fixed sling and locker at its base. From the top of P4, there is a small tree that is slung and backed up with a nut. Rappel from here to the large ledge at the top of P2 where you’ll find a single rap bolt backed up with 2 nuts (this ledge is encountered if you traverse right at the point where the P3 leftward traverse begins). From here rap back to the start of the route.
Alternatively, top out to Stanford Point via Windchill.
Getting There
Approach: Park at Wawona Tunnel Lot and walk east, down the road, towards the Valley. You can see the Widow's Tears Amphitheater from the road. The route is on the buttress that forms the right side of the amphitheater.
Look for a large, deep natural drainage down off the right side of the road - it's a ways down the road. Start hiking uphill just past this drainage. Go uphill through trees and mossy boulders until you reach an old roadbed that runs parallel to Highway 41.
A few cairns on the old road mark the spot to continue uphill. If you don't see them just continue uphill through a large talus field trending towards the right side of the formation. We found it easiest to follow the talus drainage all the way to the base of the wall, a few hundred meters right of the start of the route. This makes for an easier traverse over to the base.
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