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Routes in The Widow's Tears Area

Lurch, The T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Silver Strand WI5
Widow's Tears WI5
Windchill T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Windfall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Windjammer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Mark Chapman, Kevin Worrall, 1976
Page Views: 741 total, 14/month
Shared By: Alexey on Jun 3, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

All pitches is felt harder than it rated, but pitches 2 and 3 is very good. Route is rarely climb and there a lot of unstable blocks. Be careful on what you pull and where you placing you pro.
P1. Probably hardest 10c I've ever climbed. Follow obvious thin crack system. Crux is where you do unsecured face moves on tinny pro. Belay below the roof, 100ft.
P2. Approach to roof looks little duty. After that root is very clean. Climb #2 camelot size roof, doing one very powerful move around the lip. Than you enter via clean hand/fist crack into very long 200 ft chimney. Go up until you have rope, pro and no rope drug after the roof. 10b, 100ft
P3. Climb easy chimney with some pro . You see in the end of the chimney intimidating roof and could not believe it is 10a after climbing first two severely sandbagged pitches. But surprisingly this thing is easier than it looks. You climb under roof as high as your can squeezed your body place #4 , dounclimb and go outside of the chimney basically doing crux of the pitch on top rope. One of the coolest pitches. 10a ,180ft

Location

Same approach as for Windfall. Route located on the right side of Tower of Cosmic Wind. Second pitch roof 10b and huge chimney is very obvious figures of the route

Protection

double from black alien to #4
Rappel from the top of the tower as for Windfall using trees with slings and rings. Second and third trees look scary. We back them up with big nuts. I forget to bring bolt kit to make rappel safe

Photos

Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
Also thought p1 was hard climbing a ways over small gear. Stiff warmup that you want to bring your A-game for.

Pitches 2 and 3 are just incredible, classic climbing.

Will definitely do this route again.

We continued up to the valley rim, so not sure about raps. Have heard that someone may have bolted - not confirmed. Oct 8, 2014