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Routes in Solstice Cave

A.D.D. S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Dude Climbs Like a Lady T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Flight of the Ego S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Frost Man S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Inner Child T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pump S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roughin' Up the Suspects S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Soho the happy dog S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Solstice S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Super Ego S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tobacco Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twilight S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: David Coleman, Kenny Campbell
Page Views: 8,454 total, 85/month
Shared By: ziggy on Oct 8, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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This route ascends the very steep roof in the Solstice cave and is the next route to the right (if you are facing the cliff) around the corner from Shadow Hawk. Climb the steep face to a crux move and then fire out the insanely steep roof to the anchors. Bolts 1 2 and 4 do not have fixed draws. This is is a pumpy climb with an absolutely amazing roof. When you first start into the roof you are actually climbing back down towards the ground! Fall off anywhere in the roof and you will have a heck of a time getting back on the route!


Walk down to Spawn and Shadow hawk, continue around the corner to a ledge traverse with a cable. This will be the first route you encounter in the huge cave.


3 draws should do you, I would recommend using extended runners.
looks like the bottom of the rout has been re bolted up to the roof (fixing the missing bolt 3). There are no longer permadraws in this section though. 4/26/17 Apr 27, 2017
Mississippi James
Brighton by way of dirty south
Mississippi James   Brighton by way of dirty south
As of 10/22/2016 the third bolt is completely gone. I climbed it with out but have an attentive belayer because its not easy in this spot and a slip would bring you fairly close to decking. Oct 26, 2016
Heather R.
Raleigh, NC
Heather R.   Raleigh, NC
Does anyone know what happened to the rest of the permadraws? You use to only need to use two of your own draws but now it looks like you need five.... Apr 7, 2016
Danny Hupp
Nashville, TN
Danny Hupp   Nashville, TN
If you can get to the break, there's a really good arm-bar rest. Also, if you're pumped trying to clip the chains, throw in a hand-jam to take the weight off of your fingers, which will no doubt be tired. Apr 21, 2014
Raleigh, NC
sanz   Raleigh, NC
There is now a fixed draw on bolt 4, so you only need to take 2 draws. All fixed draws are now ultra-bomber steel cables.

Technicalities out of the way, this route is as fun as fun gets. It is hard to believe how steep the thing is until you're up under it. The overhanging section is sustained and thuggy, and the roof section is just a matter of hanging on to huge jugs and working your feet before the pump clock runs out.

Absolutely stellar route that immediately jumped to the top of my list of favorite sport routes. Jun 3, 2013
Dylan Demyanek
Fort Collins, CO
Dylan Demyanek   Fort Collins, CO
In the horizontal section there are tons of ways to use footwork to take the weight off your arms. Keep an eye out for heel and toe hooks. I also found it useful to spin 180 degrees at certain points in order to use better feet. Excellent route! Oct 20, 2011