PRINT: Rock Climb Solstice, Obed & Clear Creek

Solstice

5.12a, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 3.9 from 203 votes
FA: David Coleman, Kenny Campbell
Tennessee > Obed & Clear Creek > S Clear Creek > Solstice Cave

Description

This route ascends the very steep roof in the Solstice cave and is the next route to the right (if you are facing the cliff) around the corner from Shadow Hawk. Climb the steep face to a crux move and then fire out the insanely steep roof to the anchors. Bolts 1 2 and 4 do not have fixed draws. This is is a pumpy climb with an absolutely amazing roof. When you first start into the roof you are actually climbing back down towards the ground! Fall off anywhere in the roof and you will have a heck of a time getting back on the route!

Location

Walk down to Spawn and Shadow hawk, continue around the corner to a ledge traverse with a cable. This will be the first route you encounter in the huge cave.

Protection

3 draws should do you, I would recommend using extended runners.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Danielle Maughon practicing inverted clipping stances on Solstice (12a).
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Climber: @daniellemaughon
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Photo: @phat_phil21

Danielle Maughon practicing inverted clipping stances on Solstice (12a). Climber: @daniellemaughon Photo: @phat_phil21

Getting ready for a blood rush to the head on Solstice.

Holding the hero roof swing

sequence

Tambo on Solstice in 2015

Jugs for summer heat

My crux beta

Gotta go feet first

Reaching up into the crux.

amazing line

Cruising through the classic lower moves of Solstice; this route is about as good as 12- gets!
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Climber: @dirtysouthclimber
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Photo: @phat_phil21

Cruising through the classic lower moves of Solstice; this route is about as good as 12- gets! Climber: @dirtysouthclimber Photo: @phat_phil21

Approaching the crux roof on Solstice

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dylan Demyanek
Baltimore, MD

In the horizontal section there are tons of ways to use footwork to take the weight off your arms. Keep an eye out for heel and toe hooks. I also found it useful to spin 180 degrees at certain points in order to use better feet. Excellent route! Oct 20, 2011

sanz
Pisgah Forest, NC

There is now a fixed draw on bolt 4, so you only need to take 2 draws. All fixed draws are now ultra-bomber steel cables.

Technicalities out of the way, this route is as fun as fun gets. It is hard to believe how steep the thing is until you're up under it. The overhanging section is sustained and thuggy, and the roof section is just a matter of hanging on to huge jugs and working your feet before the pump clock runs out.

Absolutely stellar route that immediately jumped to the top of my list of favorite sport routes. Jun 3, 2013

Heather Roberts
Cary, NC

Does anyone know what happened to the rest of the permadraws? You use to only need to use two of your own draws but now it looks like you need five.... Apr 7, 2016

Mississippi James
Riverside by way of the dir…

As of 10/22/2016 the third bolt is completely gone. I climbed it with out but have an attentive belayer because its not easy in this spot and a slip would bring you fairly close to decking. Oct 26, 2016

matt mcintyre

looks like the bottom of the rout has been re bolted up to the roof (fixing the missing bolt 3). There are no longer permadraws in this section though. 4/26/17 Apr 27, 2017

Carter Purvis
Sun Prairie, WI

5.12a

Such a sweet climb! Fun movement leads you through 6 bolts up the steep section to a massive horizontal before the roof. Lots of potential for creative rests here before pulling the roof. Savor each moment in the horizontal realm, you'll be at the anchor before you know it!

Right now the bottom 6 bolts require quick draws. If you have a long stick clip, you can hang up to the third bolt from the ground. Cleaning this one is also a good time! Sep 22, 2020

Hyun Seok Yoon

beta:
youtube.com/watch?v=flUYjMG… Mar 17, 2021

thomas dodge

If you are on the taller side, the supposed crux right before the roof is very much one of the easier moves on the route. All the hard climbing is right around the middle of the first section. Also, you really do not need to ever go feet first at any point in the roof, though the judges might give you a few extra points for style if you do. Dec 1, 2021

yann gauthier
val david

5.12b

youtu.be/XByolVN1h4k?si=p_z… Oct 9, 2023

Charles Yang

Right kneepad useful. Apr 7, 2024