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Routes in Zeke's Wall

Cheeky Monkey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flow T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leanne's Ledges S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mortal Coil T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pigs Can Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Prelude S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ryan's Corner T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Suffering Bagpipes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.10 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 450 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Eric Hirst, David Harris, June 26, 2009
Page Views: 2,082 total, 21/month
Shared By: Eric Hirst on Sep 19, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Temporary closure on weekdays Details

Description

Excellent climbing and a great intro to Zeke's wall. Quicker to dry than some of the other Zeke's routes, although there is a drowning risk on p3 during spring runoff. The (seasonally) clean water source at the base and the afternoon shade on the upper pitches make this a good hot weather option.

P1: **** 5.11- PD, 1x + gear, 30m
Climb the crack to a small roof with a bolt, then continue up intermittent cracks and knobs to a 2-ring anchor. The section above the bolt is intimidating, but accepts excellent gear every 8 feet or so if you can stay calm enough to place it. Save a #4.5 Camalot (or new style #5) to protect the final teetery move.

P2: *** 5.10, gear, 28m
Continue straight up cracks and chickenheads to a ledge with a chain anchor.

P3: 5.10-, 5x + minor gear, 20m
The "unfortunate" pitch. Harder when it's running at 300 CFM, but luckily this only seems to happen during peak snowmelt. From the P2 chains, scramble R to a bolt (the only one visible from the chains), then follow bolts and some greasiness to a comfortable bolted anchor.

P4: *** 5.10, gear, 25m
The dihedral. A touch easier than P2, but keep your wits about you.

P5: **** 5.10-, gear, 20m
Short chimney to giant inverted staircase, with excellent protection throughout. Lead this one, it's a hoot.

DESCENT:
Rappel the route with a single 60m rope. When rapping the 4th pitch, be sure to pull the R side of your rope to reduce the likelihood of getting it stuck on the belay flake after the end pops through the rings.

Location

Just R of Hanna Deanna (an incredible wet-start 5.11+ splitter through chickenheads) and just L of a prominent waterfall. The waterfall offers a clean drinking water source except during spring runoff, as well as some great rainbows as you climb P2.

Protection

  • Single 60m rope.
  • Thin cams and small nuts (a blue #6 HB offset is nice to have).
  • Double cams from 1/2" to 2" (yellow #2 TCU to gold #2 Camalot).
  • Optional blue #3 Camalot
  • Single cams from 3.5" to 4.5" (old style #3.5 and #4.5 Camalot, or new style #4 and #5 Camalot).
  • Long slings for pitch 5.
  • Belay seat suggested, as there are few good ledges. Parties of 3 may wish to have the last person link pitches 1&2, to reduce dangle time.
MorganH
  5.11a
MorganH  
  5.11a
Fun climbing. Don't get suckered left at the end of the second pitch. Climb through the moss and loose blocks a few more feet straight up to the ledge with the little tree. Aug 10, 2015
Pat and I climbed all of Flow on Aug 5th. There was a bail biner on the lonely bolt of the first pitch which actually surprised me. Although there were lots of spiderwebs and accumulated mank from overall disuse, the climb is still very climbable. Unfortunately, this wall is a tall slab that gets lots of the wet, and with the current amount of traffic will likely slip back into jungle, and an even deeper level of obscurity.

But hey, it is a Great Route! For those not afraid to exercise their legs...go get some.

We didn't rap the route, but topped out and rapped down plumb line over Squeaky, placing an anchor for the unclimbed 4th pitch, which is basically this amazing splitter. We trundled the tree that Marty had intended to get rid of. The only obstacle to freeing this pitch is a very ingrown Salal bush. But, what a remarkable splitter. Aug 7, 2015
kerwinl  
Thanks for the Beta Eric, I will definitely be checking this out after we get some sun to dry it out. May 6, 2014
Eric Hirst  
 
Hi Kerwin -- I haven't heard of anyone going up there for a little while, so it may have developed some cruft in spots. I know Morgan H. said that P1 of Mortal Coil was starting to green up again. You should be fine, though -- the cruxes are also the driest and sunniest parts, so they should be OK even if there is some moss or moisture on P3 or the base of P1. Have fun, and PM me if you want a Magic Brush to give things a once-over when you're up there. May 4, 2014
kerwinl  
Anybody climb this recently? Looks like a fun route, wondering how clean it is. May 2, 2014