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Routes in Plumb Line Crag

Amaranth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Barley T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Pink T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Breezy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Closer to the Sun T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Corn T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Edward Humid Hands T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Euroboy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Guan Ho T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
High Society T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Tea For Hookers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Infusion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Inner Turmoil T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
June Bride T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Kasha T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lady's Night T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plumb Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quinoa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Radarete TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rockabye T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rye T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Silver Dollar T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Skybox T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sofa King T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Someday, Kids, This Will All Be Yours T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spins, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spit Out S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unamed Crack 1 T V2 5+
Unamed Crack 2 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V-easy 3
Unamed Crack 3 T V3 6A
Unamed Wide Roof T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V3 6A
Unknown Roof Crack V0+ 4+
Unnamed Crack 4 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 727 total, 7/month
Shared By: Johan Grahnen on Sep 7, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Rockabye is a worthwhile and fairly exciting pitch of crystalline slab. High-step up onto the slab, and enjoy the first and last actual holds on the route. Delicately balance your way right and up to the arete, and then head up and left onto easier ground. The bolts are exactly where you need them - at every harder move - but don't inspire hangdogging. Traversing right immediately after bolt #1 is safe, whereas going straight up and then right puts you in ground-fall range.

Please note that the climb is quite thin and is only 5.8 if you're a 5.10 leader. The rating appears to be more amusing than accurate. It feels more like 5.10b than anything else.

Location

Facing "Damage Done", on the upper tier of Plumb Line crag, go climber's left around the corner. The route follows a line of bolts up a somewhat meandering weakness in a slab about 40 feet left of the corner you just passed. Descend by rapping or lowering off the anchor at the top.

Protection

A half-dozen or so bolts, judiciously but not comfortably spaced, lead up to a bolted anchor with quicklinks. Not all the bolts are necessarily visible from the ground.

Photos

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More like 5.10c. Sep 12, 2016