Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 777 total · 7/month
Shared By: Johan Grahnen on Sep 7, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Rockabye is a worthwhile and fairly exciting pitch of crystalline slab. High-step up onto the slab, and enjoy the first and last actual holds on the route. Delicately balance your way right and up to the arete, and then head up and left onto easier ground. The bolts are exactly where you need them - at every harder move - but don't inspire hangdogging. Traversing right immediately after bolt #1 is safe, whereas going straight up and then right puts you in ground-fall range.

Please note that the climb is quite thin and is only 5.8 if you're a 5.10 leader. The rating appears to be more amusing than accurate. It feels more like 5.10b than anything else.

Location

Facing "Damage Done", on the upper tier of Plumb Line crag, go climber's left around the corner. The route follows a line of bolts up a somewhat meandering weakness in a slab about 40 feet left of the corner you just passed. Descend by rapping or lowering off the anchor at the top.

Protection

A half-dozen or so bolts, judiciously but not comfortably spaced, lead up to a bolted anchor with quicklinks. Not all the bolts are necessarily visible from the ground.

Photos

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More like 5.10c. Sep 12, 2016