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Routes in Plumb Line Crag

Amaranth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Barley T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Pink T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Breezy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Closer to the Sun T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Corn T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Edward Humid Hands T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Euroboy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Guan Ho T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
High Society T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Tea For Hookers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Infusion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Inner Turmoil T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
June Bride T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Kasha T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lady's Night T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plumb Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quinoa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Radarete TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rockabye T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rye T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Silver Dollar T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Skybox T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sofa King T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Someday, Kids, This Will All Be Yours T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spins, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spit Out S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unamed Crack 1 T V2 5+
Unamed Crack 2 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V-easy 3
Unamed Crack 3 T V3 6A
Unamed Wide Roof T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V3 6A
Unknown Roof Crack V0+ 4+
Unnamed Crack 4 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Hidetaka Suzuki
Page Views: 186 total, 2/month
Shared By: Petsfed on Sep 14, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

June Bride is a distinctive, smaller-than-tips splitter down low, that turns into a fingers flare up high. It is left-leaning for a ways but goes right again at the top through slightly better (but not much) jams to a notch and the topout. Step across a wide crack, and head up a brief grainy slab to a good, horizontal crack, and belay. Walk right about 50 feet to the top of the chimney the route starts in and downclimb (5.2ish) back to the belay. Alternately, bring 2 or 3 #4 Big Bros, and belay from the wide crack behind the topout.

This route does not lend itself well to toproping (the upper flared crack leans quite a ways away from the lay of the rope, leading to big pendulums and a forced sequence to deal with the pull of the rope) but can be toproped from the same horizontal crack. Pack a few hand/fist sized pieces and some nuts (I used a BD #3, #3.5, and a #8 stopper), as well as very long slings, if you elect to toprope.

Location

About 150 yards right of Plumb Line, look for a series of dihedrals. This is the middle one, with a distinctive splitter crack running up an ever-so-slightly slabby wall. The dihedral itself is home to a flaring chimney that provides easy access to the top. The route starts from a chockstone wedged in the base of the crack.

Protection

Small nuts (especially stoppers 2-4), as well as cams to 1.5"

Photos

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Petsfed
Laramie, WY
 
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
 
I did not redpoint the route, or even complete it on lead. However, I toproped it with an eye for leading. It's small nuts down low, and small cams up high. Lots of yellow Alien-sized placements. It can feel a little spicy right off the deck, since the crux is right off the deck, and it's a lot more face climbing than crack climbing until you hit the flare, about a third of the way up. Pictures are forthcoming, Jason. Sep 14, 2008