Type: Trad, 35 ft (11 m)
GPS: 34.9646, -101.6784
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,423 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jeremy Bauman on Aug 30, 2009
Admins: mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell, Kathy Farmer, Vincent P, Jim Day, Joanie Mars

You & This Route


2 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Climbing is Prohibited DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is one of the oldest climbs in the canyon that I know of. Climb straight up the crack in the dihedral until it becomes overhanging (5.6). Make a bomber anchor in the roof, then traverse left under and clip the three old 1/4 leeper hangers, but don't expect them to do anything as the last two are spinners (crux). Make your way up to the top and belay off of the trees via a ton of webbing or cord.

Location Suggest change

The crack is in the corner to the left of the large overhang on the Fairytale Wall. Look for three bolts in a horizontal line about 25ft up.

Protection Suggest change

Rack .5 - 2 Camalots, hexes, nuts, slings, and a lot of webbing for the anchor using trees about 20ft back from the top and you may need to get creative.

Photos

0 Comments