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Routes in Fairytale Wall

Cinderella Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Blind Mice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Welcome to Greenville T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 689 total, 7/month
Shared By: Jeremy Bauman on Aug 30, 2009
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Climbing Access Open - Keep a low profile. Details

Description

This is one of the oldest climbs in the canyon that I know of. Climb straight up the crack in the dihedral until it becomes overhanging (5.6). Make a bomber anchor in the roof, then traverse left under and clip the three old 1/4 leeper hangers, but don't expect them to do anything as the last two are spinners (crux). Make your way up to the top and belay off of the trees via a ton of webbing or cord.

Location

The crack is in the corner to the left of the large overhang on the Fairytale Wall. Look for three bolts in a horizontal line about 25ft up.

Protection

Rack .5 - 2 Camalots, hexes, nuts, slings, and a lot of webbing for the anchor using trees about 20ft back from the top and you may need to get creative.

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