Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,350 total · 12/month
Shared By: Dominic Albanese on Jul 26, 2009
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route

11 Opinions

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Climbs the main, wide-ish crack/layback in the middle of the face. Hence the name. Steepens a bit at the top.

A popular intro to the area, and a good one to get used to the slightly strange rock at Ilchester.

Start is the crux no matter how you start.


Many starts for this ranging from using the tree to go straight up, to variations right and left. Watch swing if starting to the side.


As long as someone spots you off the ground, this quickly becomes G rated gear. TR anchor on top.

Can seep a bit after the rain.


Joe Lucas
Hanover, MD
Joe Lucas   Hanover, MD
Built anchor off pillar and rebar. Tough start, but otherwise easy/fun. Very short. Can get crowded (especially with nonclimbers). Short approach from parking area. Jun 15, 2017
I couldn't pull a direct start without using the tree to work my way up. The base of the whole area is eroded which makes all the starts in this area quite hard (my humble opinion). Mar 27, 2018