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Routes in Ilchester

Beginners Corner TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blue Balls TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blue Rose T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Crunch TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Double O TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Middle Climb T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Midnight Lightning TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ninja TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Renaissance TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,196 total, 12/month
Shared By: Dominic Albanese on Jul 26, 2009
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route

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Climbs the main, wide-ish crack/layback in the middle of the face. Hence the name. Steepens a bit at the top.

A popular intro to the area, and a good one to get used to the slightly strange rock at Ilchester.

Start is the crux no matter how you start.


Many starts for this ranging from using the tree to go straight up, to variations right and left. Watch swing if starting to the side.


As long as someone spots you off the ground, this quickly becomes G rated gear. TR anchor on top.

Can seep a bit after the rain.


Joe Lucas
Hanover, MD
Joe Lucas   Hanover, MD
Built anchor off pillar and rebar. Tough start, but otherwise easy/fun. Very short. Can get crowded (especially with nonclimbers). Short approach from parking area. Jun 15, 2017