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Routes in Ilchester

Beginners Corner TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blue Balls TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blue Rose T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Crunch TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Double O TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Middle Climb T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Midnight Lightning TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ninja TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Renaissance TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,160 total, 41/month
Shared By: Dominic Albanese on Jul 26, 2009
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route


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Description

The classic route at Ilchester and maybe in all of Maryland. Packs three cruxes in 30 feet of climbing.

A burly first move over the roof to a decent rest jug, tricky jams lead to a stance under the rood and the final "Blue Rose" move over the hang to finish. When you finish look at the large welt on the back of your right hand to find the Rose.

A proud on-site for any Baltimore climber. This climb has been led, free-soloed, done blindfolded, aided, and probably climbed more than the all the other climbs in Baltimore combined. If its open hop on!

Location

Located on the main face at the obvious crack on the left side of the wall. Start with good finger-locks underneath a small roof.

Protection

Most often Tr-ed, but is perfectly leadable. The gear while abundant can be strenuous to place and people have taken ground-falls trying to punch through.
Frank T
  5.9
Frank T  
  5.9
This is a good route to have a go at clean aid. Just be mindful when placing gear just below the upper overhang. I found a #0 C3 to be handy at this spot. Nov 9, 2009