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Routes in End of the Road Rock

B & E Bluff T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Inside Flush T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Inside Straight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poker Face T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Two of a Kind T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Women's Work T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: FFA Ernie Johnson and Skip Harper in '93
Page Views: 627 total, 6/month
Shared By: Petsfed on Jul 16, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

A fun big hands to fists to wide crack up a nearly vertical wall. Start from a ledge inside the corridor and climb a crack as it steadily widens to offwidth just before a ledge (easier for bigger hands). Getting onto the ledge is the crux. You can either continue up an offwidth/squeeze straight up, or exit right onto the finish Two of a Kind. Either way, belay in the alcove behind the squeeze. It is highly recommended, if you do the squeeze, to either run it out, back clean, or use Big bros, to prevent a snag while pulling the rope.

Location

From the base of Two of a Kind, look left into a corridor. Inside Flush is the hand crack that passes to the right of the big chockstone.

Protection

SR to 5", with a couple spares in the big hands-fists size. I didn't place anything smaller than a #1 camalot, including the anchor.

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Petsfed
Laramie, WY
 
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
 
The problem is finding partners who want to learn the best way to thrutch. I've been focusing a lot on fingers, but mostly I've been having difficulty finding motivated partners when I didn't have to work. Dec 14, 2009
slim

  5.9
slim    
  5.9
Isn't Vedauwoo your home crag? I would think you would be honed at the wide. That would be pretty weird if overhanging slopers and figure 4s were your forte! Dec 13, 2009
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
 
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
 
I did. Mostly because I got sucked in so much, which led to that primal switch that leads to throwing in waaay too much gear right where you don't need it. I hung instead of sacking up, pulling the cams, and doing the move.

By comparison, I got my ass kicked on Mainstreet this last summer. Couldn't even do the crux on toprope. Offwidth is a technique that typically eludes me, but this didn't feel hard enough to be 10a offwidth. Dec 13, 2009
slim

  5.9
slim    
  5.9
Did you 1 hang this one? Dec 13, 2009
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
 
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
 
Then clearly I was just feeling really strong that day. Also, if you have smaller hands, the off-width starts much lower. For me, I was able to get good jams until almost the last move before the big horizontal break. I did hang on that move, so maybe 10a is a reasonable guess, I just don't typically 1-hang 10a offwidth. Its a fun route, and a great warmup (alongside Inside Straight, across the way, which feels pretty similar to Plumbline) for Women's Work. Dec 12, 2009
Skip Harper
  5.10b
Skip Harper  
  5.10b
'Inside Flush' was put up (FFA) by Ernie Johnson and Skip Harper in '93 (the same day we did 'Inside Straight' and 'Poker Face'). There's more to the route than one finds on 5.9 climbs, including shuffling slightly difficult jams, both hands and feet, and a couple of 'strenuous' crunch moves. We both lead it and came to the same (independent) consensus as to the grade. I might consider 10a, but probably not on flash lead. Incidentally, Kelman's guidebook gives appropriate route 'authorship', whereas Orenczak does not. Dec 11, 2009
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
 
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
 
I have used the Kelman guidebook grade here, although this route felt closer to mid-range 9. I just spent the previous 10 days sport climbing, so my crack grade recognition skills are probably off. Jul 16, 2009