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Routes in End of the Road Rock

B & E Bluff T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Inside Flush T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Inside Straight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poker Face T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Two of a Kind T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Women's Work T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Bob Scarpelli and Chris McGann
Page Views: 220 total, 2/month
Shared By: JNE on Apr 8, 2006 with updates
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a classic sandbag. Climb slightly overhanging, thin fingers to hands up top. Start off the top of the obvious block in the corridor. The flare makes for good feet in the crack, all the edges on the outside just break away. The name is making fun of a couple of spraymasters who were sandbagged on the line and then laughed at because they couldn't even do women's work.

Location

As you approach EOTRR as per the description, you will see a slightly flared splitter finger crack facing you (on the west side of EOTRR), the bottom hidden behind another part of the formation. It has greenish yellow lichen prettying it up, a pod near the top, and a horizontal crack intersects the left side near the bottom. You have to scramble up some slabs and into a narrow gully to get to it. Starts off a wedged boulder in the gully.

Protection

#4 Zero through #2.5 Friend. You can also get a big hands or fist piece for the easy top section. There is a fixed nut at start and coldhuts up top.

Photos

bart cubrich 1
  5.11-
bart cubrich 1  
  5.11-
The bottom apparently does go without stemming, but not at 10+. Jun 22, 2016
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
Pretty damn hard down low! Sep 3, 2012
JNE
 
JNE  
 
Slim and Brian, sounds like you did the line the right way. Jul 17, 2009
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
Jammer, I think we are talking about the same thing (i.e. scramble up on top of the block, lean across to the locks, and jump into action). If so, I feel less dirty now. Jul 16, 2009
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
  5.10d
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
  5.10d
We stemmed from that block so we didn't have to use that rattly tips lock thing (its too shallow for anything but tips, but too wide for anything else). It'd be doable, and wouldn't impact the grade that much (maybe bump a full number grade up from the sandbag grade), but the stem makes getting off the ground so much easier that you'd have to force yourself to not use it. Jul 16, 2009
JNE
 
JNE  
 
Where are you guys stemming? Sorry if my lackluster route description led you all astray. I changed it slightly, so hopefully it is fixed now.

The climb starts on top of the block in the corridor. Reach accross the gap, get a thin but bomber finger lock or two, then jam the crack to the top. If you are stemming anything but the 5.1 section to get on top of the block, you should feel dirty ;). Jul 16, 2009
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
I've climbed the start straight on and there is fairly tough move, kind of an insecure tips lock if I remember correctly. Stemming in kind of seems the natural thing to do, although you feel kind of dirty doing it.... Jul 16, 2009
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
  5.10d
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
  5.10d
The fixed nut is gone. Incidentally, we found that stemming in made the start doable, but we're not certain if that bypasses some of the crux. Thoughts? Jul 16, 2009