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Routes in Leftism Alcove

Brain Child V1-2 5 PG13
Looking Up V0 4 PG13
Low Brow V2-3 5+ R
Lowercase Class V4-5 6B+ R
Project V6-7 7A+ X
Project (Var.) V7-8 7B
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Luke Childers
Page Views: 37 total, 0/month
Shared By: Luke Childers on Jul 9, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Start just right of "Brain Child" in a left-leaning crack. Follow the crack up into a mean, right hand, finger lock. Pull hard and power left (1st crimps still dirty, so be careful) into a small set of crimps. Work these crimps to the lip of the head-wall. Finish on better holds leading to the summit of the "Brothers Lookout." Great climbing with a possibly very dangerous crux fall. I took it by myself a few times and it was spooky and not recommended. Enjoy.

Location

From the 1st parking lot, take the Sisters trail until it meets up with the Ponderosa. Take a left (west) for about 50 yards and look up to your right and you will see the Brothers Lookout lower tier. This is where "The Wisdom Wall" is located. Once you have got the lower tier spotted, just bush whack your way towards the lookout while staying slightly EAST of main terrace. Continue past the first tier via a gully that is best accessed from the far EAST of The Brothers Formation. Walk up the gully looking to your right and you will start to see the hidden jewels of the 2nd Tier. Continue to the top of the gully past "The Left Brain Buttress." Look up and to the NORTH and the alcove with be obvious.

Protection

Several pads and a spotter!! All the falls in this alcove can be very dangerous.

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