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Routes in Scot Rock

Bagpipes & Ale T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bonnie Brae S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Chivas Regal S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crazy Rock T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Haggis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Highlander S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Loch Lomond S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Loch Ness S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Neil’s not Young Anymore S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dave LePere & Brad Singer, May 2002
Page Views: 1,675 total, 16/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on Jun 18, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Residential area Details

Description

This route follows the face on the right side of the southwest arete in two short pitches, ending at the anchor for Tipton’s Arete. Can also be done in one continuous pitch. Rappel in two pitches to descend the south face or one pitch to descend the west face.

P1: Start in the broken dark rock on the left side of the face. Using a variety of crack and face technique, work through the blocks and cracks to a nice ledge with a two bolt anchor. (5.7) 5 bolts, 50’

P2: Head up and right to a shallow dihedral. Continue up the dihedral on small edges and smears. A second similar dihedral leads to a large ledge with a two bolt anchor. This is the anchor for Tipton’s Arete, visible from the west face and accessible from the right-slanting ramp that starts at the base of the west face. (5.7) 5 bolts, 70’

Location

Left side of the south face, just right of the arete.

Protection

10 bolts, bolted anchors
TacoDelRio
All up in yo bidniss.
 
TacoDelRio   All up in yo bidniss.
 
Really enjoyed this route. I felt P1 was more like 5.8-9, P2 5.8, and P3 5.not much. P2 was my favorite. I have been working and not climbing a lot lately. Feb 21, 2016
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.9
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.9
The first pitch is quite technical, I climbed straight up past the fourth bolt and would say it had a 5.9 move, going left at the fourth bolt is easier. Pitch 2 started with a kick in the pants but I must confess at bolt number 3 I was starting to doubt that I was on a 5.7 and started to look for the easier looking ground, there was a difficult move to passing this which I'd give 5.9. That being said pitch 2 is wonderful.

I've done a lot of 5.7s and this one is way up there in technical difficulty. Pitch 2 has a few natural pro opportunities, small cams up to 1.5".

We finished up Bonnie Brae. Oct 17, 2014
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.9
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.9
The following comments are from Sara Susca because she does not have an account:
there is no way in fucking hell this is 5.7, definitely not the second pitch anyway where there is spot that is so blank you would not believe it. I am also short so that does not help. I think that section is 5.10a, the rest is perhaps 5.9, and that's it. Oct 17, 2014
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
2 pitches, as listed in Brad's first edition of Hidden Treasures (out of print). This suggests the FA was done in 2 pitches and therefore the route was submitted to MP as 2 pitches. Yes, as I said, a 60m will reach the ground on the west face. The double rap refers to rapping down the south face. Jun 7, 2011
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.7
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
  5.7
2 pitches?? Really??

You can do this route by scrambling up 4th class rock to a decent blocky ledge then climb to the anchors. 60m rope CAN lower you off. Heck, Bagpipes and Ale is the longer of the two routes and the better quality route as well,

Hey, Eric (Tipton).....is Neil Young your favorite dood? May 8, 2011