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Routes in Widower Wall

Cannons & Muskets V3-4 6A+ X
Pillage the Village V5-6 6C+
Slap 'em Down V4 6B
They All Fall Down V5 6C
Unknown V3 6A
Widower V7-8 7B X
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Tom Hanson/The Hausmann brothers???
Page Views: 971 total, 9/month
Shared By: Luke Childers on Jun 15, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Start down low in the back of the cave like feature on good jugs. Work out the roof on good holds to a tuff match sloper move at the lip. Continue to climb stright up past more bad slopers to the finsih. Exit the same as for the "Widower."

(One of the major holds currently has a bird's nest in it... please do not disturb the nest!!)

Location

The Tortuga "Widower Wall" is located just behind (North) of the Gilligan's Islands formation. The "Widower Wall" is just left (West) and slightly down hill a bit of the main "South Wall" of the "Tortuga Area."

Protection

Pads and spotters.

Photos

Brett S.
Colorado
  V5
Brett S.   Colorado
  V5
Cool problem. Took quite a few goes to link all the moves. The topout is insecure on slopers and delicate feet. There is no need to match on the sloper above the roof, you can do a semi-dynamic movement with your left hand to skip to the next hold above it. I think V5 feels fair. Sep 19, 2015
Hello, all. Did this problem again today for the 1st in almost 2/3 years!! Forgot how good it really is and much harder than I remember. That being said, I changed the routes listed grade. I agree with others on this one.. I felt it was more like V5/6.. Solid V5 at that!! Super fun. And the bird nest is finally gone, but having the big jug in the roof doesn't really make the problem that much harder. Any way!! Love this line. Sep 27, 2011
Bob Robinson
Lone Tree, Colorado
V5+
Bob Robinson   Lone Tree, Colorado
V5+
This problem feels like a stiff V5 for me. I still can't commit to the high slopers. I really enjoy the line on the left side of the roof though. I agree that feels more like V3. Oct 15, 2010
Tom Grummon
Salt Lake City, UT
Tom Grummon   Salt Lake City, UT
We climbed the problem to the left today and agree that it's about a V3. Fun climb, scary heel hook at the finish. Sep 5, 2010
Josh Mitchell
  V5-
Josh Mitchell  
  V5-
This line might be a bit harder than V3 in case anyone's interested. A more realistic grade would be V5. Also there is a line that starts low and left and climbs straight up through the small roof, staying left of this line. This is probably V3 or so. May 19, 2010
Said Parirokh
Redlands, Ca
Said Parirokh   Redlands, Ca
There is a bird's nest on one of the first few jugs of this problem. Today (7/18/09) I saw baby chicks in the nest. Hopefully they eventually vacate so we can use this hold again. Jul 18, 2009