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Routes in Windward Wall

Blender Head T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Good Clean Fun S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Lee Side, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Storm Warning T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Windward Passage, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 175 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Kear, Greg Newmark, Dave Benyak 8/13/95
Page Views: 117 total, 1/month
Shared By: Bill Lawry on Jun 7, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

See Sandia Rock by Mick Schein (2003, Sharp end Publishing) for a good description.

Schein's guide indicates to belay P2 near a tree. We set a belay lower at about 30 meters from the start, just right of the short chimney (semi-hanging belay). From that lower belay one can head up about 10 feet, get in some pro, and traverse left to the finger crack. If the belay is set this way, I'd give the second pitch a "great" rating, and first pitch is "okay" to "good" and needs pruning as of June 2009.

Location

Starts about 50 feet up and left of Good Clean Fun on an ample ledge with two alder trees (June 2009): one young and short, one around five inches in diameter and broken off at the trunk.

Protection

Standard rack up to 4 inches.

Photos

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Karl Kiser
  5.8
Karl Kiser  
  5.8
The climb is better if one divides the route into two shorter pitches following the left facing dihedral most of the way. It is good to belay below the slot on a good stance. Go up and right to the top of the finger crack, then traverse left (less probable looking) and gain the crack above the slot. Again, the bushes need a trim, they are directly on the route. Jun 28, 2015