For next few days, REI will DOUBLE your gift to the Access Fund - up to $65,000. Donate Now!
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Brother Buttress

Crack-a-Toe-a T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Difficult Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Java TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Twin Cracks TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, TR, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,795 total · 16/month
Shared By: Manspear on Jan 6, 2009 with updates from Ian McNulty
Admins: Dave Hug

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description [Suggest Change]

This route is a challenge right from the start. The crux is at the bottom where a short 7ft crack turns horizontal to meet up with the rest of the crack just to the right of it. Using a nice jug that's deep in the crack and some clever smearing you can set yourself up nicely to make the transition between the two cracks. After the crux is below you a series of well placed hand jams will give you success.

Location [Suggest Change]

The route is in the brother's buttress and twin sisters area and is just to the right at you pass the lower wall of the twin sisters on the trail that comes up from the road, parking lot, and outhouses below.

Protection [Suggest Change]

There is one large boulder and one 3ft round boulder on top of the bluff that make for great top rope anchors but if your short on gear there are some good living trees that will do the trick if set up properly

Photos

DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
As I was soloing this back in the 80's I was nearing the top when a snake slithered out of the exit crack. I decided to downclimb the route rather than chance having another snake peek out at me as I climbed by. Jul 13, 2010
sunder
Alsip, Il
  5.8
sunder   Alsip, Il
  5.8
There two Bolts up top for anchors for this route. Apr 11, 2011

More About Difficult Crack

Printer-Friendly