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Elevation: 609 ft 186 m
GPS: 42.14439, -90.16446
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 112,933 total · 1,287/month
Shared By: Dave Hug on Nov 27, 2017
Admins: Dave Hug, Kevin Sierzega, Aaron Mc
Warning Access Issue: South Sentinel and Forgotten Wall both Closed. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Walls are ordered North to South with A being the furthest North and L being the furthest South.

Mississippi Palisades state park is owned and managed by the Illinois Department of Natural Resources. The Palisades is a great area for anyone living near Chicago who can get away for a weekend. It is located on the Illinois side of the Mississippi river, just across from Iowa. The limestone bluffs rise roughly 180 feet above the river level in some places, though none of the climbs are actually this long. Pretty much everything here is top-rope, with tons of natural anchor options in the trees and some boulders on top of the walls. This limestone can get pretty manky - especially with wet and even just humid weather. There are a few routes that are in bee territory here, which can make the climbing very exciting. Because of the humid and buggy summers, the best time to climb here is October to November. A nice dry crisp fall morning here is ideal.

The favorite section here goes by a few names, but most people know it as "The Cove". It is a stone ledge roughly 30 feet by 30 feet behind the dominant Sentinel Tower. Several routes can be found in this small space, easy to moderate, plus a few harder lines. Getting into The Cove requires a class 4 scramble over some well worn holds (smooth as glass) and a few boulders.

Due to the close nature of the routes in The Cove, things can get very crowded here. Overlapping belay stances can be a hassle, but climbers with half a wit and a dose of courtesy shouldn't have any trouble. During the busy summer weekends the whole area can become overrun with gearless trundle-happy yokels who WILL step on your rope, gear, dog, etc. Be advised. Watch for flying cigarette butts from the observation deck above.

There are a few other areas along the palisade - please contribute if you are familiar. I'll do my best to update this soon.

Getting There Suggest change

Use a map to find Savannah, Il and then head north a few miles to Mississippi Palisades State Park. Camping is available at the north end of the park, but if you want to get away from the Good 'ol RV Folk (who mostly stay huddled within their giant rolling metal crap houses), you'll have to pack it in a mile or two to the primitive sites on the eastern hills. This is not recommended for climbers, however, as you'll be an awfully long walk from the crag. Instead, look for tent sites at the south end of the campground (sites #45-60). You'll be reasonably far from the RV's, and you can still car camp and then drive to the crag, which is located at the south end of the park. Ask park staff for more details and refer to below for a map.

Resources

Suggest change

Founded in 2002. The Illinois Climbers Association is a charitable organization representing the climbers of Illinois. We are dedicated to preserving climbing and bouldering access in Illinois through education, conservation, and cooperation.

Mission

The Illinois Climbers Association is a 501(c)3 charitable organization created to:

  1. Promote and support conservation and preservation of both rock climbing and bouldering areas, and their respective natural resources in Illinois
  2. Encourage optimal recreational use of Illinois outdoor climbing resources through land stewardship education and by facilitating cooperation between climbers, private land owners, and public land managers
  3. Encourage and promote the development of policies and practices that will preserve climbing and bouldering areas in Illinois

144 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mississippi Palisades State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 31
Sentinel East Face
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 37
Nosey
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 24
First Crack
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 21
Second Crack aka Myrtle's Folly
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
Third Crack
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 25
Double Overhang aka Fourth Crack
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
Difficult Crack
Trad, TR
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 16
Sentinel North Face
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 21
Pretzel
TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Face Off
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Pretzel Face
TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
 4
Return Engagement
TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 5
Blank Wall
TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 5
Over and Up
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sentinel East Face A: Sentinel
 31
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Nosey A: Sentinel
 37
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
First Crack A: Sentinel
 24
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Second Crack aka Myrtle's F… A: Sentinel
 21
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Third Crack A: Sentinel
 8
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Double Overhang aka Fourth… A: Sentinel
 25
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Difficult Crack F: Brother Buttress
 13
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Sentinel North Face A: Sentinel
 16
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c TR
Pretzel A: Sentinel
 21
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Face Off A: Sentinel
 4
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR
Pretzel Face A: Sentinel
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Return Engagement A: Sentinel
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 TR
Blank Wall A: Sentinel
 5
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c TR
Over and Up A: Sentinel
 5
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c TR
More Classic Climbs in Mississippi Palisades State Park »

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