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Early Access
Routes in Green Thumb
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Bazooka T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 R |
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Diagonal Finger Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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East Face/Green Thumb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Extreme Ironing T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Far Niente S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Green Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Green Crack aka Green Corner Right T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gullwing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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L.A.S.T. aka Unknown Flakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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North Face Sport S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Stainless Steele 'Rete T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Zimbra S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 39.9871, -105.2949 |
| FA: | Bobbi Bensman, Paul Piana, Dan Michael, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 2,147 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Taylor Roy on Nov 13, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: Raptor nesting lifted July 26, 2023
Details
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
Description
Loosely translated from Italian, Far Niente means doing nothing. However, with its slabby nature, airy feel and wickedly technical moves, climbing this beautiful, old school sport route is hardly nothing.
Solo up 15 feet of grey rock, and move left across a ledge until you are below the first bolt. Balance over the small roof, and levitate past the second bolt and the hardest moves using tiny pebbles, and edges. Although the difficulty eases off past the third bolt, the 5.11 climbing remains devious, slopey, off balance, and super thin.
If you are in the mood to climb a hard slab, Farniente won't disappoint. The rock is impeccable, the moves are fun, the route is stunningly pretty, and the view is unbeatable. Doing nothing is the last thing you will want to do when you see Farniente.
Protection
This route is equipped with ring bolts and a two bolt anchor with rap rings. For the more timid, it might be nice to have a stick clip for the first bolt. A 50 meter rope is needed to get back to the ground from the anchors.
Per Tristan Bradford: this was rebolted with glue-ins thanks to a donation from Greg Barnes of the ASCA.
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