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Routes in 13.5 miles

Good Moki Mojo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Positive Mental Attitude (aka PMA) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Zack Gerhardt,Luke Douglas,Clark Olsen-10-11-04
Page Views: 2,441 total, 22/month
Shared By: Luke Douglas on Oct 25, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Leave this area as you find it! Details
DO NOT DISTURB ARTIFACTS,LEAVE NO TRACE Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The crux is pulling the blocky little roof about 30' up the first pitch. After that get ready for several hundred feet of perfect hands to fingers. On the FA the crack was guarded by a whippy tongue of rock about 70' high. It is not still there and our buddy is still alive.

Location

See photo topo. Red line. Descend from slings in trees/bushes at 200' and 400'. If you are going to the ridge just down hike to the uppermost rap station. Bring some back up webbing just in case.

Protection

1 set of Camalots to #3,some extra #2's,yellow alien, and a few nuts.
Descend from sling anchors at the top of the first two pitches.Two 200 foot long raps!

Photos

Aaron Ihinger
Ridgway,CO
Aaron Ihinger   Ridgway,CO
the two neighboring dihedral routes are much safer. This crack system, though aesthetically sublime, is both sandy and brittle. Three feet off the deck I was given fair warning when a chunk of the lie back flake came off in my hand, setting the stage for many more iffy moves to come. The upper half of the first pitch is congested with loose sandy blocks awaiting your trigger toes in order to crush your belayer. If you do bother with this route, bring new slings... the existing look old enough to be original. Nov 25, 2011
Jamie Princo
Boulder, CO
Jamie Princo   Boulder, CO
agreed! loose, nasty choss slot, not worth one's time or energy.

jamie Nov 25, 2011
roman d
Pasadena, CA
 
roman d   Pasadena, CA
 
choss Jun 1, 2010