Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mike Massey and/or Matts Kerns?
Page Views: 2,683 total · 22/month
Shared By: kyber on Sep 21, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

awesome awesome stemming! crux comes at the 4th bolt if i remember right. whats good? all of it. whats bad? nothing i can think of. its super techy..

Location

to the right of Hang Overhang. its a left facing dihedral with chalk all up and down it!

Protection

6 bolts + chains.

Photos

Frank Sosa
Washington
 
Frank Sosa   Washington
 
This is a BRILLIANT pitch of climbing. And a very hard 12a.
The roof is great! The stemming is Great! The crux seem to be clipping the 3rd and fourth bolts. If you manage that it's time to grind your teeth and pull a few cranky moves that get you through the roof. From there it's all over. WOW. Apr 13, 2011
Erin Machinchick
Seattle, WA
  5.12a
Erin Machinchick   Seattle, WA
  5.12a
Great climb! Crux comes after the third bolt, transitioning from techy stemming to balancy crimps. Climb straight up over the arete for a no-hands rest before pulling through the fun, pocketed roof. Oct 21, 2012
MorganH  
Do people actually stem through the corner to the jug, or cut right around the arrette. I couldn't figure out how to stay in the corner. Feb 23, 2014
calvino
Marblemount, WA
 
calvino   Marblemount, WA
 
Great route. Significantly harder than Red M&Ms. I stemmed to the second bolt, then some strenuous two finger pulling, to rock up on the arete. There is a lot of chalk suggesting more stemming, but I suspect it is from top rope shenanigans. Apr 22, 2014
Kemper Brightman
Tucson
 
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
 
Sometimes the stars don't align.

I have a couple bones to pick with this "classic" route. They have been neatly summarized for your viewing pleasure below:

- This thing is definitely not 60'. If this is 60' the kingpins are 180' and the feathers at 100'.
- The only thing striking about this line is the amount of chalk on it!
- The entire difficulty of the route comes down to a single V6-7 move on sharp holds. No sustained movement here!
- Avoiding the ledge to the right is a clear contrivancy as the 5th bolt is easily clipable from the hands free stance on the ledge. (Saying this having climbed it both ways)
- In most other places this would be a 1-2 star route. The fact that this is a classic speaks fathoms about the climbing at vantage in general.
- Great news though! If you think this is calssic, get stoked because you have a lot of incredible 5.12 climbing ahead of you (you just might have to drive further to find it). Checkout Smith Rock, Skaha, Hells Canyon, Maple Canyon, Tensleep, Rifle or any other regional or global destination climbing area and prepare to have your mind blown.
- Untill then, do yourself a favor and climb something (or somewhere) else Oct 30, 2018
slim    
v6 or v7? Lolz, more like V3... Oct 31, 2018
Kemper Brightman
Tucson
 
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
 
Ok, so let's call it V3 then. Is it classic now? Nov 1, 2018
slim    
vantage is an acquired taste, at best. Nov 2, 2018
Jim Jam
Wenatchee, WA
Jim Jam   Wenatchee, WA
Yes Kemper, vantage is terrible choss, best stay away. Tell your friends too Nov 2, 2018
Kemper Brightman
Tucson
 
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
 
Dont get me wrong, Vantage totally has it's place in Washington climbing, and there are really good routes to be climbed here... I just don't think this is one of them! Nov 3, 2018