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Routes in The Orange Wall

Grasshopper Wall. West Face Left T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
La Primera Vez T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Orange Wall T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Tom Warren and others 1975
Page Views: 808 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jared Spaulding on Jul 23, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

A long, alpine route. Lots of loose rocks and flakes in the chimney systems. Good climbing otherwise. Appears to usually be wet in some spots, but was dry in the summer (July) of '06. OK to decent belay ledges. Lots of potential variations in neat looking dihedrals on the upper portion. On many pitches we climbed till we were out of rope (60m).

P1 Crux. Route starts on left side of alcove/large roof, on a high ledge system at base of wall. Climb crack on left side through awkward 5.7+ move at roof. Climb to grassy belay ledge at 185 ft

P2 4th Class and low angle cracks for about 174'

P3 Climb splitter low angle crack to roof. Traverse left under roof to a small dish and a nut belay

P4 Climb straight up from belay, avoiding the dihedral slanting up and left (this could go somewhere good...) Climb up chimney and belay in chimney.

P5 Climb another chimney pitch. There is a small ledge and left facing corner to the right and eventually pass a horn with a rap sling (there in July 06). Belay in chimney.

P6 Continue up. Tunnel under a block. (I had to drag my pack). I then belayed at a slung horn.

P7 Climb up possibly passing a boulder with rap slings on the right. Climb a cool chimney squeeze to a small ledge and then climb a slightly overhanging hand/fist crack to the left of a wet corner/gully thing. Belay on a ledge with a large, leaning block.

P8 Climb up block to a nice dihedral and up to a big, sloping, grassy ledge, about 100'

P9 A chimney goes straight up and a beautiful dihedral is up and left. I moved 20 yards right and climbed a 5.2 crack system to top of ridge and third class rock.

Descent: Head north off of backside to gully. Descend gully to south facing slope and down this slope (either grassy with water falls or loose scree) to the Grasshopper Creek.

Location

Right side of Orange Wall. See photo.

Protection

I used two sets of TCUs, 1 set of nuts, and a set of Camalots to #4. One rope.

Photos

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