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Routes in The Orange Wall

Grasshopper Wall. West Face Left T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
La Primera Vez T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Orange Wall T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Madore, Hartman?
Page Views: 326 total, 4/month
Shared By: matt j hartman on Sep 5, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

This is a good climb that was cleaned up on the likely first ascent (this is the winds, Fred Beckey may have called it 5.8 and climbed in boots). Saw some loose rock that was easily trundled and no fixed pro. Route is on a west facing wall over the grasshopper valley, about 500 yards north of the current toe of the grasshopper glacier. Just right of a huge chimney. Begin in cracks just right of edge.
p-1- climb obvious cracks for 150 feet to a belay 5.8
p-2 climb roof, cracks and face for 140 feet. belay just below and left of a grassy flare 5.9
p-3 climb the grassy flare (not that bad) and crack above, traverse under a roof and hang a belay (small TCU's and stoppers) 5.10a.
p-4 this pitch is impressive and lead onsight by Jim Madore. move right through a roof and up a dihedral to thin crack. move past it to a wide crack and belay above. look around and use all the features. awesome climbing and position. 5.10d.
p-5 climb 5.7-8 cracks to large grassy ledge.
p-6 finish off easy 5th class on good rock to summit.
descend down north gully towards the orange wall (very chill)

Location

The wall overlooks the grasshopper glacier on the downs mountain quad. The formation in unamed, but obvious when you get there. Approach from trail lake or possibly green river lakes. The route follows the least imposing section of wall. we bailed off a route up the gut that got pretty hard after a pitch and a half........lots of potential for stronger climbers.

Protection

alpine rack with extra finger piece or two.

Photos

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