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Routes in Baron's Estate

5.9 crack to left of The Baron T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Baron, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 71 total, 1/month
Shared By: Bosier Parsons on Jul 11, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a nice, long corner system on the right side of Baron's Estate. We climbed it on the way up to the Castle, because we figured we might as well. It's a fun and sustained finger and hand crack and was a nice bonus, considering the approach to the Castle.

1) Climb the shallow, right-facing corner at the right side of the base area. This is a good finger crack then ends at a big ledge with a tree that traverses left to the main dihedral system (this larger dihedral is what Hubbel calls the Baroness), 5.8+, 80 feet.

2) Traverse left into the larger corner and climb it to the top of the formation. This is a long, fun, and sustained pitch, 5.7+, 170 feet.

Information was taken from Peter Hubbel's guidebook. It has been a pretty long time since I climbed this, but I think this is a decent description. I know we just climbed it with our packs and stretched it as one long pitch with some simul-climbing, which made it feel a little harder but was also pretty sweet.

Location

Approach the easiest way you can from the lake. Shoot for the right of two obvious right-facing corners. I remember the trees on the approach not always giving us the best view of either Baron's Estate or the Castle, so just follow your nose. Start in a shallow, right-facing corner, just right of the bigger of two right-facing corners on the face. Walk off or continue up to the Castle.

Protection

Standard rack to 3". Some doubles might be useful if you simul-climb and do it in one pitch, but it is hard to remember exactly.

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Phillip Morris
Flavor Country
  5.8+
Phillip Morris   Flavor Country
  5.8+
I think the second pitch in the description is actually Handy in the Hubbel guidebook, but who knows?

Anyhow, I went straight up from the first pitch. This is also a large, right-facing corner with a very wide crack that one can chimney (good gear on the inside) for a ways. At some point, the crack pinches down to offwidth size and you are forced out onto the face. I laybacked the last 20 feet of the pitch. Not a lot of pro, but it was only 7 or so.

Great granite, exciting finish, and well worth the hike. Jul 30, 2009