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Routes in Shark's Tooth

1-bolt Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
3-bolt Arete S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, TR, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,401 total, 12/month
Shared By: Jeff Beckstrand on Jul 1, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Dirt road winter closures Details


Climb up the featured arete to a two bolt anchor. Cool moves, good holds, pretty vertical and so slightly pumpy.


Three quickdraws, dress the bolted anchor to taste.


the flake lives, but it's close. will be a nice bouldery start and tricky first clip when it goes! fun short climb that gets better each move. 9 hours ago
Flake still there! super fun route. 2nd bolt more heady then 3rd for sure. Sep 26, 2016
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
Sweet quality rock! I felt clipping the 2nd bolt was more heads up than the 3rd but they're probably both heads up. Haha!

I climbed this a couple years ago with a skier from South Lake. He pulled straight out on that poor flake until my wife and myself started yelling at him "Pull straight down! Not out!" He just looked at us, smiled, and asked "You got me?" Feb 1, 2015
Did this in May 2014.......Flake is still very flexy but intact... for now. Jul 11, 2014
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
That flake is still hanging tough! But yes, it flexes aLOT even climbing very gingerly on it... I think it will still go if and when it does bust, there seem to be enough features around to make it possible, albeit it will probably be in the .11-.11+ range... Sep 24, 2013
Floyd Hayes
Floyd Hayes  
My belayer said the flake was moving when I pulled on it. Not much can be done to avoid it unless you start off-route to the left of the arete. I will feel sorry for the last person who gets to climb the flake. Sep 4, 2011
San Francisco
tallmark515   San Francisco
Be careful of the flake on the arete at the bottom of the route. It is dangerously loose and about to come off. Handle this crucial route component with care.

The 20' above the flake is secure and enjoyable. Clipping the 3rd bolt is kinda heads up. Aug 24, 2009