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New Traditionalists
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3 from 4
votes
Routes in Slab Area
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Electra Hex T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Electric Wizard T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gottlieb Offwidth T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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New Traditionalists T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Old Progressivists T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Poultry in Motion T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rock Bottom T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Saw Hammer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sea of Galilee T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Ship of Fools T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Solstitude T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 34.74, -83.3931 |
| FA: | Shannon Stegg and Curtis Glass, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 1,500 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | EL WRAY on Jun 28, 2008 |
| Admins: | Luke Cornejo, Mark O'Neal |
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Access Issue: Climbing Permit Needed - Heat advisory in summer
Details
Climbers must stop at the park's visitor center to obtain a climbing permit.
Starting in 2026 they have instituted a heat warning policy that says on "heat advisory" days that you must be out of the gorge by noon. They will tell you this when you obtain your permit. You should assume in the summer months that this policy will be enforced every day and they will enforce it
Climbing access is not allowed during whitewater releases and aesthetic water releases.
For water release schedule and further information please check the park's website, gastateparks.org/TallulahGorge.
Potential for seasonal raptor closures. Typically it's just around certain routes and the whole climbing area isn't closed
Starting in 2026 they have instituted a heat warning policy that says on "heat advisory" days that you must be out of the gorge by noon. They will tell you this when you obtain your permit. You should assume in the summer months that this policy will be enforced every day and they will enforce it
Climbing access is not allowed during whitewater releases and aesthetic water releases.
For water release schedule and further information please check the park's website, gastateparks.org/TallulahGorge.
Potential for seasonal raptor closures. Typically it's just around certain routes and the whole climbing area isn't closed
Description
This is the easiest route on the Slab. First 30' of pro is in hollow flakes(micro/small cams), nothing harder than 5.8 or 5.9. after that you get a bomber BD #3 in the beginning of the right facing corner. follow the corner to a small horizontal crack that takes med sized tcu. from there straight up onto the face (now entering crux). pull crux moves and continue up. fixed pins are where the old belay was, but are now rusted and broken off. Anchor on slung horn and little tree. rap from tree.
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