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Routes in John Doe Wall

Barefoot Fred T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
Bob T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirty McNasty's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Frenching Shiela T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Jane Doe T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Tim Roley, Scott Duemler
Page Views: 792 total, 7/month
Shared By: bio on May 5, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Obvious long offwidth on the left side of the wall. Start below and left of the offwidth crack at 15 foot chimney split on both sides. Travel over broken and chossy stuff up and traversing right around a corner. This first pitch is a traversing, chossy mess that is like 5.7. It's just to access the sweet crack above. Once at the crack you'll start having fun immediately, on mostly good rock. You will end up at a roomy alcove below top of wall. You may ascent cracks to top then scramble back to alcove through steep gulley. The offwidth section has good and interesting rock, worth the crappy first pitch.The last pitch is good rock with stemming and jugs everywhere. Rap the slung boulder then two more raps. straight down.

Protection

Mostly larger gear. Full rack of cams and nuts with doubles on 3.5 through 5. triples #4 is better.

Photos

Bob Pettit
cave creek
 
Bob Pettit   cave creek
 
Should replace webbing on top of 3rd pitch bring 30 feet of 1 in webbing as of 3/14/15. Mar 19, 2015
Mark Mueller
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10a
Mark Mueller   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10a
Safe and well protected. Very fun crack once you get into it, the start keeps it at 3 stars. Also, including the first choss pitch there were only 3 pitches total. Rap/Belay stations are in place as well. Aug 6, 2012