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Routes in John Doe Wall

Barefoot Fred T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
Bob T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirty McNasty's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Frenching Shiela T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Jane Doe T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Mike Knarzer, Scott Duemler
Page Views: 258 total, 5/month
Shared By: bio on Jun 26, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Start slightly right from sandy bottom then traverse left on rail to start of crack. Clip first bolt then grit your teeth and move through the technical crux, very thin past 2nd bolt then into crack with nice gear. Crack is hands and fingers, sometimes shallow, sometimes flaring. Some really hard crack toward top then over mini roof to great edges and 2 bolt anchor.

Location

In the same alcove as Dirty mcnasty's, right side of john doe wall as you follow the base right and down/around a bit.

Protection

2 bolts, nuts, triples from tiny stuff to .75BD, 00 and 0 metolious great, even ball nuts useful, singles from 1 to 3BD, a #4 is useful for start of crack. Great to have your small stuff in diff cam types for overlap in range.

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bio
mesa, az
 
bio   mesa, az
 
Mike is still working on the FFA for this one. Jun 26, 2013